Water hammer due to zone valve closing

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Derbyshire
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I've just had a Worcester Greenstar boiler fitted to replace my old Ideal Minimiser SE. The old boiler did not has a pump run-on requirement and so bypass was fitted. This Greenstar does require pump run-on and so a bypass was fitted. But now, when the last zone valve closes with the pump still running there's a water hammer thump as the outlet pipe from the boiler shakes and hits the inlet pipe. I guess a brace between the two pipes would help, but it won't stop the water hammer. Is this a normal phenomenon with pump run-on boilers?
 
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We had this with the Y valve on our system so I changed it and on dismantling the valve could find nothing wrong except that the arm, which moves the rubber ball to close the two ports, had a little slop in its action, which would explain the thump we occasionally heard. I wrote to Honeywell who asked for a photo of the installation, which I sent, to receive the reply that the valve had not been installed correctly. They told me there should be a clear run of 100mm of straight pipe each side of the valves and they waffled about turbulent flow in the water caused by the 90 degree bends being too close. I found this hard to believe so despite being tenacious when complaining to manufactures, I gave up. Now, two years later, the new Honeywell valve is beginning to thump as it activates. I expect it will annoy me enough that one day I'll drain down and fit a new one.
 
I've just had a Worcester Greenstar boiler fitted to replace my old Ideal Minimiser SE. The old boiler did not has a pump run-on requirement and so bypass was fitted. This Greenstar does require pump run-on and so a bypass was fitted. But now, when the last zone valve closes with the pump still running there's a water hammer thump as the outlet pipe from the boiler shakes and hits the inlet pipe. I guess a brace between the two pipes would help, but it won't stop the water hammer. Is this a normal phenomenon with pump run-on boilers?
Can you turn down the bypass to open earlier? If that fails check the valve is installed correctly, and consider moving the bypass to where the zone valve is.
The pipes should be clipped securely regardless.
 
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your installer has mixed up the flow and return and your zone valve is now the wrong way round
 
As @FiremanT says there is an arrow on the body of the valve showing the direction of flow, when installed the wrong way around it will still work but will clunk when closing
 
I wrote to Honeywell who asked for a photo of the installation, which I sent, to receive the reply that the valve had not been installed correctly. They told me there should be a clear run of 100mm of straight pipe each side of the valves and they waffled about turbulent flow in the water caused by the 90 degree bends being too close.
There is no mention of the 100mm straight pipe requirement in any Honeywell documents.
 
your installer has mixed up the flow and return and your zone valve is now the wrong way round
What he said.
Check the arrow on the valve and make sure the heat is going in that direction.
 
Thanks all for your suggestions. The zone valves have indeed been fitted the wrong way round :(
 
Thanks all for your suggestions. The zone valves have indeed been fitted the wrong way round :(
They wont have been fitted the wrong way round , they were probably the right way round, then when your installer fitted the new boiler they swapped the flow and return around as it was easier for them so now the zone valves are the wrong way round
 

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