What cable for a cooker.

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According to page 12 of your manual it requires connecting to a suitable cooker circuit and not via a 13A fuse, even though the full current rating is probably around that. To cover all bases I would personally use 4mm2 butyl 3 core flex.
 
According to page 12 of your manual it requires connecting to a suitable cooker circuit and not via a 13A fuse, even though the full current rating is probably around that. To cover all bases I would personally use 4mm2 butyl 3 core flex.

It's going to a recently installed cooker 'socket' (FWOABW.)
 
The manual does indeed state that. Page 7
The instructions are very poor.

4mm² T&E cable is capable of handling 37A so why you need a 13A fuse is presumably to protect the oven - not really the purpose of the fuse.

On the other hand 1mm² T&E can handle 16A.


In most places T&E is used for ovens, seemingly to no detriment.

However, heatproof flex should be used - see here
 
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The manual does indeed state that. Page 7
The instructions are very poor.

4mm² T&E cable is capable of handling 37A so why you need a 13A fuse is presumably to protect the oven - not really the purpose of the fuse.

On the other hand 1mm² T&E can handle 16A.


In most places T&E is used for ovens, seemingly to no detriment.

However, heatproof flex should be used - see here

I've got some 1.5mm 16amp 3093Y. If I'm going to have to put a 13AMP fuse in the fuse box to protect the oven I might as well use that?

Unless it's a typo in the manual.
 
I suppose it could be a mistake and should be 30A fuse - at the consumer unit.
It would make more sense.

I could not see any rating for the ovens in the manual.

I suggest you contact the manufacturer to be sure.
 
I would not, I would put at least 4.0mm, even if this cooker does not require it. Then if some day in the future you decide on a higher powered cooker/oven the cable is in place for you.
If you do the calcs on diversity you would still require 16A add 5A for socket outlet if required, so not sure where the 13A comes from?
 
I would not, I would put at least 4.0mm, even if this cooker does not require it. Then if some day in the future you decide on a higher powered cooker/oven the cable is in place for you.
He's only talking about the flex from the unit to the wall.
 
ELECTRICAL CONNECTION
WARNING - THIS APPLIANCE MUST BE EARTHED.
The cooker must be connected by a qualified electrician to a suitable double - pole control unit with a minimum rating of 32A and a minimum contact clearance of 3mm, which should be fitted adjacent to (but not above) the cooker, in accordance with IEE regulations.
The power supply cable should conform to BS6004 with a conductor size of 4mm2.
The control unit should be easily accessible in the event of an emergency.
This appliance conforms to EN55014 regarding suppression of radio and television interference.
The cooker terminals are behind the cover at the rear The mains cable must pass through the cable clamp and the screws must be fully tightened. Sufficient cable should be used to allow the cooker to be pulled out for servicing. Ensure that the cover is fully closed and secure afterwards.
Take care not to trap the mains cable when pushing the cooker into its final position


That suggest to me that this cooker requires a cable/flex that can carry 32A safely.

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CA4TQ3slash50.html
 
I need to source the cable from the wall to the cooker. I'm pretty sure what cable I need but can someone spell it out to me.

"The power supply cable should conform to BS6004 with a conductor size of 4mm2."

"Electrical connection 4mm2 twin and earth
230/240V a.c. 50Hz.
13A fuse."

Here's the manual.
http://www.hotpoint.co.uk/hotpoint/_pdf/manuals/19508817800_GB.pdf[/QUOTE]


There's a plate on the side. :)

4.5kw -4.9kw.

I make that about 20amps.

Customer help line were more useless than I could have imagined.
 

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