What consumer units can I use?

[vexille]

I have two fuseboxs. Both are outdated and need to be replaced. One is 15amp x 3 only goes on at night. The other is 100amp. Two 30 amp fuses, 1 5amp fuse and one MCB. No RCD.

What else do I need to check to work out what type of CU I need? If I just get a new MK sentry CU or a Merlin Isobar, what are the odds that its compatible?

I am looking for a mid range CU, thats preferably about 10 way.

No intention of fitting it yet, until I am happy that I know what I am doing. Even then would have an electrician to take a look at it afterwards, to make sure it is fine.

I have 1 live and 1 neutral going to the the main CU. I also have 1 live and 1 neutral going to the night economy 7 box or whatever it is. Do most CU have four connections for the four cables from the meter? What type has this. I assume I would not need two CU after I upgrade?

Last question. Since the wires leaving the meter have a current running through them, what is the correct procedure for disconnecting them from the old CU and connecting them to the new CU? As far as I know can't see anyway to shutdown power to these.

 

[EFLImpudence]

If you don't already know you should not be doing this.

 

[flyingsparks]

Take cover!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[ban-all-sheds]

What else do I need to check to work out what type of CU I need?

You don't - you must get an electrician to do all of this for you.

No intention of fitting it yet, until I am happy that I know what I am doing.

You're in the middle of a substantial refurb - there is no way you can learn enough to be competent to replace your CUs in the time that you have. You genuinely have no idea how much you need to know.

Even then would have an electrician to take a look at it afterwards, to make sure it is fine.

It doesn't work like that.

Please get an electrician to do all of the electrical work.

I am replacing the asbestos walls and ceiling in the hallway with plasterboard.

Correction - please get an electrician to do all of the electrical work after you've had all the asbestos appropriately dealt with by a licensed asbestos contractor you stupid, stupid fool!

 

[riveralt]

Last question. Since the wires leaving the meter have a current running through them, what is the correct procedure for disconnecting them from the old CU and connecting them to the new CU?

Since you got shouted down by suggesting you could put the cu in the loft - this is just a wind up - isn't it?

Or are you so stupid and ignorant that you honestly believe anyone here is going to say anything other than GET AN ELECTRICIAN IN.

 

[Taylortwocities]

Take cover!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[ricicle]

TROLL ALERT

 

[Taylortwocities]

In that case

Untitled

• Taylortwocities
• 11 Jun 2011
• 8

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I don't think we should rush to brand him like that.

Given that he's DIYing asbestos removal it's quite possible that he's just a numpty.

 

[ericmark]

I lived in the days where we removed the brake drums and blow out the asbestos dust with an air line.

Although as professionals tool box talks have shown us the errors of our ways there is no reason why a DIY guy should have been updated as to the errors we now know we did as standard in the past.

His question is valid. How do we know what CU to select. Or how to connect it. Is it so hard to give a factual answer?

OK how to connect. First you registers the work with the LABC. Then one phones the DNO and asks them to disconnect. Then one removes old CU and fits a new one. Then you ask the LABC to inspect or accept you test results. Then you ask the DNO to re-connect.

In real terms not that simple as the DNO will likely require an electrician to be on site before reconnection. But that's the idea of what should happen.

As I am sure you realise this means the property will be without electric for days. So the property will need to be empty. The normal residents will likely need to stop in a guest house or hotel while the work is being done.

Even a scheme member electrician will have problems in changing a consumer unit and stay within the regulations. However the non involvement of the LABC will make live much easier and likely mean only one day without power.

In real terms most electricians will to a small extent break the rules and as to if when an isolator has not been provided by the DNO the electrician or DNO are breaking the rules is unclear.

However involve the LABC and the question of breaking DNO seal is no longer in your hands and most "Jobs Worth" inspectors will go by the book.

So in real terms not a DIY job.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I lived in the days where we removed the brake drums and blow out the asbestos dust with an air line.

Although as professionals tool box talks have shown us the errors of our ways there is no reason why a DIY guy should have been updated as to the errors we now know we did as standard in the past.

Oh come on - who doesn't know these days that asbestos is incredibly dangerous?

 

[ericmark]

My dad now 88 would often work with asbestos. Yes he has asbestosis but it's not that which will kill him. And if he did not have asbestosis would he know anything about it? Manual trades have been told for years about it's dangers. But why would a bank clerk be informed?

Yes we know. We also know how to wire. But even in the 1960's when I was at school we were not told we should not touch it. In fact the mats we used at school contained asbestos.

Not sure what date we were taught about the dangers in school, but one would need to be less than 61 years old.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Manual trades have been told for years about it's dangers. But why would a bank clerk be informed?

I don't work in a manual trade.

How come I know?

Because it's been all over the mainstream news and central and local government publicity for decades, that's how come.

 

[SimonH2]

I have 1 live and 1 neutral going to the the main CU. I also have 1 live and 1 neutral going to the night economy 7 box or whatever it is. Do most CU have four connections for the four cables from the meter? What type has this. I assume I would not need two CU after I upgrade?

You will probably still have two units after the change - it may be possibly to combine them, but I'm not sure whether there are any that would be suitable for dual supplies while staying within the limitation of the manufacturers instructions. There are other ways of doing it (eg, at work we have a single board in each office, and a contactor on the night circuits operated by the teleswitch in the meter room), but that just makes things even more complicated.

But this is notifiable work, and quite frankly it's costly to do electrical work through LABC - though someone mentioned you're doing a larger refurb in which case it might not be so much as part of the bigger scheme. Not being funny, but from your questions, it's clear you don't have the knowledge to do this safely - and are unlikely to be able to learn that from asking the sort of questions you are (there's no substitute for "show and tell" teaching IMO).
I've organised a CU change for a friend. it cost significantly less to pay someone to do it and self notify than it would have cost to go through LABC.

Put it all together - you are best getting in someone who knows what they are doing. Find the right sort of guy, and treat them right, and they'll probably explain some it it to you as they do it - but don't go getting ideas that watching over the shoulder for one CU change will make you competent to do them yourself.

 

[RF Lighting]

I have 1 live and 1 neutral going to the the main CU. I also have 1 live and 1 neutral going to the night economy 7 box or whatever it is. Do most CU have four connections for the four cables from the meter? What type has this. I assume I would not need two CU after I upgrade?

You will probably still have two units after the change - it may be possibly to combine them, but I'm not sure whether there are any that would be suitable for dual supplies while staying within the limitation of the manufacturers instructions. There are other ways of doing it (eg, at work we have a single board in each office, and a contactor on the night circuits operated by the teleswitch in the meter room), but that just makes things even more complicated.

Yes dual tarrif CUs are available but they rare, so the cost and hassle of getting one will be prohibitive. The norm would be just to stack two identicle CUs on top of each other and keep one as the normal board and one as the OP board.