What oil for an internal oak door

[swampydrill]

Guys, got 11 x 6 panel oak veneer doors to oil when i get home, i want something that has a slight shine to it. Brother said he used danish oil but that was quite dull, friend says to use Osmo wax/oil for doors. Would be good if you could get some tester pots to try, i am not staining or varnishing just not sure what oil to get to achieve a mild shine.

 

[woodfinishes1877]

Osmo Polyx Oil only comes in satin and matt finishes - even the satin is quite dull.

What about trying Liberon's Finishing Oil, it produces a higher sheen and will certainly protect the doors.

 

[RigidRaider]

Are you sure the oil won't soften the adhesive under the veneer?

We are fitting veneered doors in our house and we wanted to achieve a flat smooth sheen like you see on hotel doors, offices etc. We tried Ronseal satin varnish and it looked awful; showed every brush stroke and run. Then we tried Dulux trade satin and it gives a brilliant finish, it's very forgiving of mistakes and looks perfect.

 

[swampydrill]

I think if that was the case then there would be instruction from the manufacturer not to apply oil. There is no way i am putting varnish on it, i don't want a glossy finish, just a slight sheen to it, i will experiment with a few on the top of the doors. Am i right in thinking that the more coats i apply of oil, the shinier it will get?

 

[RigidRaider]

That was exactly the point I was trying to make - we tried Ronseal satin and it was horribly shiny, showing every brush mark. Dulux trade varnish in satin is brilliant though, it gives a lovely smooth dull waxy sheen just like you see on posh hotel doors. It doesn't show the brush marks and any clumsy runs just seem to disappear. Rubbed down between coats and then gently with fine sandpaper after the final coat makes it super smooth and removes those annoying little specs of dust that feel so gritty to the touch.

Your doors will come with an instruction not to use a water-based varnish and I am wondering if an oil might also lift the veneer?

 

[awbcm]

In my opinion all polyurethane varnishes are as much use as a one legged man in a backside kicking contest. And the there best use is a fire accelerant. Why; they turn yellow in a sort space of time, and at best look a load of rubbish. And if any one mentions varnish in my present they are told to leave the workshop and wash there mouth out with soap.

For the DIYer who wants to obtain professional results should use oil or white polish applied by lint free cloth or pure squirrel hair polishing mop. And denibbing between coats with 320grite paper removing all dust with a dusting brush and tack cloth.

If the gloss is to high then you can knock it back by using 0000 wire wool in the direction of the grain. And if you wish you can finish off with a good quality wax polish.

If you use white polish you may be able to apply three coats in one day to your doors.

White polish or oil should not affect the adhesive used to apply the veneer.

 

[swampydrill]

Am i right in thinking the more coats of oil i apply will make it shinier.

 

[awbcm]

Am i right in thinking the more coats of oil i apply will make it shinier.

Sort of;

What you are seeing is an illusion that looks as you are getting a deeper gloss level with the more coats that are applied, but in fact what you are seeing is the finish getting thicker. And the thicker the finish on timber the more rubbish it looks.

You will see a slight gloss with the very first coat applied but by denibbing this you will knock it back to a matt. With the second coat you will see a slightly deeper gloss level. This is because the first coat as partly sealed the timber; again this is knocked back by denibbing. By the time you have applied the third – fourth coat you should achieved the gloss level required. This is due to the timber being fully sealed.

Professional levels of gloss are shown as a percentage; i.e. when we order a lacquer, french polish well any timber finish we order it in a percentage gloss level.

• 
  5% Full matt
  
  10% Matt
  
  20% Low sheen
  
  30% Medium sheen ( egg shell )
  
  60% - 70% Deep sheen
  
  90% Full gloss

Remember the more coats you apply of any timber finish including paint the thicker it will be and hence the more rubbish it will look. So the idea is to apply the minimum of coats as thinly and evenly as possible. And denibbing between coats to remove any brush marks.

 

[swampydrill]

The doors are raised and fielded type with slightly raised mouldings, on a couple of doors there is a very slight gap where they have mitred the mouldings, what is the best filler to put in if planning to oil the doors.

 

[awbcm]

The doors are raised and fielded type with slightly raised mouldings, on a couple of doors there is a very slight gap where they have mitred the mouldings, what is the best filler to put in if planning to oil the doors.

Have a look at theses threads looking for mine & woodfinishes1877 replies

//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=1017627#1017627

//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=150807

http://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/wood-finishes/wood-fillers/wax-filler-sticks.htm

http://www.decoratingdirect.co.uk/viewprod/r/RODRCPK/

http://www.frenchpolishes.com/products/konig.htm

https://vault2.secured-url.com/frenchpolishes/acatalog/Konig_Range.html