Where am I going wrong?

[Alison556]

I didn't want to hijack the other thread re problems with w/b satin, so started a new one.

I'm trying to paint a flush door. I got Johnstone's w/b primer and satin.

The primer was looking good - nice and even with hardly any brush marks.

I rubbed it down in preparation for the satin - and then it all went wrong.

It looks horrendous.

I seem to have a band across the middle of the door. Maybe I've put the paint on there too thick

I damped the brush (synthetic brush) and damped the door down before painting.

I went across the grain, then laid it off going up the way.

The top was starting to dry by the time I was getting down to the bottom so I don't know if this has caused my problem.

I'm going to have to go over it again but how far back do I need to abrade it? Will the patchy bits show through a second coat? Will I need to rub it right back and start again?

Where the heck am I going wrong? Do you paint the whole door before laying off or do it in halves (top then bottom)?

I'm wishing I'd just bought a new door!!!

 

[misterhelpful]

With oil based paints it's much easier to paint a flush door because the 'open time' is much higher. This allows you to work in sections (I do a flush door in 3 sections) and blend the paint in seamlessly. However, as you are finding, water based paints are a different story. Whenever I have used them on flush doors (which hasn't been often!), I always found it easier to get a better finish by doing the door in full length sections and working across it. You still have to work quickly to get it done without blemishes, but you don't get that join that you mention part way down the door, where the edge of a section starts to dry before you can blend the next section into it.

Basically, you should use a 2½"-3" brush to apply the paint top to bottom, lay off with a full length stroke and continue to work across the door quickly. Hopefully, this should you a much more even finish.

 

[Alison556]

Sorry if I'm being thick - do you mean to go across the grain the full length of the door in sections and lay off each section as I go?

I'm actually not bad with oil based but geez, this water based is a different kettle of fish.

 

[misterhelpful]

No, I mean top to bottom, which should be with the grain on a flush door. It's never wise to go across the grain and then lay off with the grain when using a water based finish because you can overwork the paint which makes it dry even quicker.
Get the paint on the door in a width of around 6" all the way down, then lay off with full length strokes (upwards tends to be easier) before continuing across the door in the same manner.

The key phrase for me would be...'quick, Quick, QUICK, kuh-wuh-ick, QUICK!!!'

BTW, you will probably need to sand out the blemishes a bit before applying the next coat, as they are likely to show through if they are particularly noticeable now.

 

[footprints]

If you don't mind a slight orange peel finish a roller will get the paint on fast.

You can buy ones designed for gloss paint that are a fine pile.

I know some people apply with a roller and lay off with a brush but you do have to be fast!

 

[Alison556]

Cheers, I'm just bracing myself to start again. I've rubbed it back as best I can. It doesn't help that the light is atrocious - daylight - what daylight and if I put the lights on, I still can't see where I've been.

How thick do you apply this stuff?

 

[misterhelpful]

Thickness is hard to explain but you are basically trying to keep a wet edge with the paint so that you don't overlap onto drying paint.
It's not the easiest job, as you are finding, but I'm sure you will get there. If it really is drying too much then you could try adding a few drops of Floetrol (or similar) to keep the paint 'open' for a little bit longer.

 

[Alison556]

Just done one side - as quick as I could!! At the moment, it looks hellish but we'll see when it dries.

I did wonder about using Floetrol or the Xim stuff but when I asked at the merchants here, I just got a funny look so they obviously don't have it!!

I wouldn't mind so much - but the back of the door - that nobody sees - looks fine! I'm wondering if there's something wrong with the door cos that side's always been a devil to paint - whether with oil or water based.

 

[misterhelpful]

I wouldn't mind so much - but the back of the door - that nobody sees - looks fine!

That always seems to be the case!

It's unlikely to be a fault with one side of the door unless there is something different that has been applied previously but if the primer looked good then I doubt it. Are you working near a radiator or heat source that is drying it out to quickly or somewhere that is cold?

 

[Alison556]

It's the kitchen door and our kitchen leads off from the living room. There's no radiator in the kitchen and the living room one is at the opposite end of the room but it's pretty warm in the house plus I've got the spotlights on to try and see what I'm doing - it's a dark miserable day here today.

I'm losing the will to live with it - I'm getting the feeling that a new door might be the way to go - and I'd get a panelled door - has to be easier to paint.

 

[misterhelpful]

I'm losing the will to live with it - I'm getting the feeling that a new door might be the way to go - and I'd get a panelled door - has to be easier to paint.

Possibly, but it does seem a bit of a drastic course of action. Maybe you could go down the oil based route to see if it looks better first?
I suppose, if it's white you are using, then the likelihood of yellowing will put you off, but it's a simpler option than replacing the door and then maybe still having issues.

 

[footprints]

It will certainly help if you open the windows in the heated rooms and let them cool before painting, you can close them and crank up the heating as soon as you have finished.

I had a nightmare job once with a customer that insisted on running the heating full blast despite my explanation that it was causing trouble. I was just on a hiding to nothing with that one!

 

[Alison556]

Well, it's a bloomin disaster again. I'm giving up for a few days - it'll just have to look naff.

I'll rub it right back again and start again - and turn the heating off when I do it and try and keep it cool.

Might even try and get some Floetrol or Xim to try with it - I think I need all the help I can get.

Either that or get my handy man friend to have a go at it

I've been saying for ages I'd like to change the doors anyway - from flush doors to something with a bit more look - so maybe it's fate!! LOL

 

[dcdec]

As its giving you so much grief you could try a roller

http://www.decoratingdirect.co.uk/viewprod/w/WOOSTER_JUMBO_KOTER_MICRO_PLUSH_MINI_ROLLER/

You can apply to a third of the door and then lay off with a brush and then just repeat two more times.

 

[footprints]

I find a large rum and coke helps at times like this

There's always sticky backed plastic (Fablon) as per Blue Peter!

Pour your self a drink and just walk away, Worst case scenario is rub down and go back to oil based.

I can remember spraying a mini standing back and seeing the finish erupt in a crinkle finish, that took more than one R&C to get over I can tell you .

Spoke to the local paint supplier and they supplied me with a special primer that sorted it in no time a few days later, and "Min" was resplendent in Daytona Yellow in no time

Good luck with it