any years ago I actually went through the process of making myself some maple staved cutting boards as a test run to see how awkward this process is. I'm a trained, qualified carpenter and joiner and at that time I ran a workshop, so here's a few pointers for you
I take it from that that you've no desire to go "old school" and level the surfaces buy alternate diagonal hand planing with a scrub (Bismark) plane, then? Me neitherI wouldnt want to think about making a worktop with no means to dimension sand flat -it would be a right ball ache to do with a belt sander.
I can feel the blisters just thinking about itI take it from that that you've no desire to go "old school" and level the surfaces buy alternate diagonal hand planing with a scrub (Bismark) plane, then? Me neither
Ah, but you didn't say that in the first place. In which case why do you need to make an entire worktop? You could just buy-in a pre-manufactured staved worktop, and many manufacturers will sell you a shorter length of 900mm wide breakfast bar worktop to make-up just such a corner infill.... Ive bought a flash kitchen corner sink off ebay and need to have the worktop coming out an extra 5cms on one of the inside corners (so 2 x 45degree bends rather than one 90degree if that makes sense).
and the piece for the sink to be mounted in can be made from a breakfast bar section usually 90cm deep to match the worktop.
In which case why do you need to make an entire worktop? You could just buy-in a pre-manufactured staved worktop, and many manufacturers will sell you a shorter length of 900mm wide breakfast bar worktop to make-up just such a corner infill.
If your manufacturer of choice doesn't do the wider tops (unlikely), you can always extend a 600mm "standard" width piece by adding another piece onto the back of your corner section. This will require near perfect jointing and I'd recommend some form of alignment mechanism, too (such as 12 to 16mm dowels or Dominos within the joint) and you'll also need heavy T-bar cramps or cramp heads and bars to do the glue up. Once done the joint can be scraped and finally belt sanded (because Sodt's Law means it is highly unlikely to be perfectly flat) and finished.
All a lot more "do-able" than trying to make-up your own worktop from scratch
IMHO you need more time than sense to spend that amount of effort and time (and all with a screaming router) to level timber when you can achieve almost identical results (at least on one surface) with a scrub or Bismark plane a steel straight edge and a belt sander probably in the same or less time. In any case if you have a workshop full of equipment why on earth would you do that?(use a router flattening jig, that is)One thing he does do not mentioned here (because it would be a nightmare on a piece that size) is flattening using a router sled but iirc he still runs the pieces through his belt sander afterwards - having said that I know 'The Wood Whisperer' uses a router sled for levelling the top of the roubo workbench he made but again the set up for that is a bit of a mare!
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