Which floorboards for 1930's house Plus Stairs Question...

I'm sorry that you post such firm views on the basis of what must be a very limited experience - i have been in many softwood T&G varnished floor rooms and instantly seen all the traffic patterns and blemishes.
Perhaps you've never noticed?

Leaving aside the rudeness of your post, which is perhaps to be expected (a) on the internet, and (b) from America, just how many chipboard floors have you replaced and what condition were they in? How many T&G floors have you sourced and laid, in the UK? I may only have renovated two houses but I'll wager my experience is as good as yours.

I wouldn't deny for a moment that chipboard is cheaper than floorboards, but that doesn't equate to floorboards being "very expensive", and chipboard isn't suitable for a finished floor, which is what the poster wants.

So wind your neck in by several hundred nautical miles.

Cheers
Richard
 
Sponsored Links
What ignorant self defeating foolishness, every time you've opened your mouth you've put your foot in it:

at 3:45 you stepped up and unwarrantedly criticised my observations - when you couldn't have read the OP's post, which my post was in answer to.

You still haven't read the OP's post or his reminder that the c/board was in the bedroom (even after quoting it in your paste up), and still you go blathering on about it getting wet.

OP "cost is pretty important" - he was pondering a choice, and i think that i covered that choice.

"How many floors ..." hundreds, literally hundreds of new work and remedial work in hundreds and hundreds of houses in both the UK and the USA. What a sad little question that is. And such a pathetic claim - you seem to have so much to prove to yourself i'll "wager". Sleep with the light on, i'm sure that it will help.

To anonymously criticise someone for their nationality is the refuge of the cretinous coward, its also irrational because you dont actually know who i am.
Think, think, think before you next open your pretentious nautical mouth.

I am sorry that you feel upset but it should pass - have you ever thought seriously about remedial reading?
 
I am sorry that you feel upset but it should pass - have you ever thought seriously about remedial reading?

You do still seem to be in a fine fettle. And talking in generalisations. You might recall the original post:

One of the things that we wanted to do was for the main bedroom to have exposed floorboards.

This being so, I’ve tried to give helpful advice and to be as specific as possible, not least to give the more experienced the opportunity to criticise my work if it’s inefficient. I criticised your post because I thought it was vague and unhelpful. I don't see what reading has to do with it. If I’m offering advice I try to indicate what experience I have, and describe what I've done, rather than making unsupported assertions, as you did. I think that's more helpful for the reader, who can judge how much weight to give to my opinion. I’m not in the trade, so all I can say about the relative cost is this. When I bought resawn pitch pine I paid £22 per sq m, inclusive. I don’t call that expensive. I've paid similar prices for reclaimed. When I was costing the extension that I still haven’t built, the price quoted by my local builder’s merchant for new floorboards equated to £15 per sq m, inclusive. I don’t call that expensive either. Chipboard is cheaper, but you have to add the cost of fitted carpet. Chipboard goes down more quickly, but it’s a different equation for the DIYer, and for the builder on a new build, because the householder doesn’t cost his labour. In this thread, the chipboard is there so the cost balance is between fitted carpet, and floorboards plus finish. The cost of chipboard vs floorboards is neither here nor there.

I've also pulled out chipboard, from bedrooms, that has deteriorated badly through leaks, damp and mechanical damage. Not, I admit, hundreds and hundreds of times.

One final question though:

Chipboard panels are fine and sound.

T&G boards are v. expensive.

Varnished floor boards show wear and tear very quickly.

Whatever you decide on, we can take you through the simple joinery process.

I’m puzzled how you think laying a floor involves joinery. Perhaps some remedial reading?

In any case, there’s no point in this because it doesn’t help the poster. Have a final rant and I won’t respond. Better still, try to post a picture, and BAS can take over ;)

Cheers
Richard
 
I'm so sorry that you seem to be even more upset than before, and still ducking and diving.

In your confusion you've at least dropped the nautical pretentiousness but not the cliches such as: "in fine fettle".

I mentioned your cowardly aspect, and now lacking the manliness to stand on your own argument, you've called in another poster to hopefully, somehow assist you - very weak: "Please Sir, ree's challenging my nonsense".


Joinery work - are you a complete numbskull? Do you consider lifting and laying a wood floor to be plumbing or roofing work? Have you any notion of trade terminology?

"Hundreds and hundreds" - you asked and i replied. I know that you are disappointed but reality does have a habit of creeping into even the saddest lives. Take comfort in new knowledge.
 
Sponsored Links
We did the same with re-sawn (Victorian) joists, using cut nails.

We treated with osmo polyx hardwax oil and it looked fab.

I've always used Ronseal Mattcoat varnish, which gives a durable, non-shiny finish. I shied away from using oil or wax because of the perceived need for re-coating, but having since seen the results of it I wish I'd given it a go.

Pitch pine barely needs any finish on it at all, and looks lovely, but probably wouldn't go with the floorboards in the rest of the poster's house (if that's an issue).

Cheers
Richard
 
moosekat,

on Wed May 7th @ 5.04 i gave you detailed advice. You have not responded to or acknowledged my recommendations. Just saying.
 
HERTSDRAINAGE2010,

on Wed May 7th you made two wild and ignorant comments on my suggestions to the OP.

You had obviously not read what the OP was asking, and within minutes of your foolish post the OP himself corrected you.

Yet you didn't man-up and apologise - perhaps you dont do apologies, perhaps you find it difficult to man-up?
 
We did the same with re-sawn (Victorian) joists, using cut nails.

We treated with osmo polyx hardwax oil and it looked fab.

I've always used Ronseal Mattcoat varnish, which gives a durable, non-shiny finish. I shied away from using oil or wax because of the perceived need for re-coating, but having since seen the results of it I wish I'd given it a go.

Pitch pine barely needs any finish on it at all, and looks lovely, but probably wouldn't go with the floorboards in the rest of the poster's house (if that's an issue).

Cheers
Richard

Yes, we actually did retreat the floor after a couple of years withh osmo, but in retrospect there was absolutely no (visible) need to.... I think the tin recommended it so we just did it...


We're replacing the floor in our new place soon and are very likely to use Osmo again.
 
HERTSDRAINAGE2010,

Now that you are back on this thread perhaps you will apologise or explain your ignorant and wild post above: 7 May 2014?

By the way, why have you been ducking and diving when i politely asked you to return here and explain your confused comments?
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top