which tank to take feed for pumped shower

[Boxerman]

I currently have a 100 ltr cold water takn feeding a shower, as I'm fitting a pump I'm joining a 2nd 150ltr tank to give me an overall 250lts. This new tank will be connected via 2 x 22mm tank connectors to the existing one therefore I can contine to use the existing float valve and feed.

Just wondered which tank to to take the new shower feed from, either the existing one which is quite close to the filler or to blank that one off and fit a new one at the far end of the new tank i.e. at the furthest point from the filler. Hope this makes sense

Opinions welcome

 

[JohnD]

if you have two tanks joind together to increase capacity, feed into one and draw from the other. This keeps fresh water flowing through and reduces the chance of stagnant pockets.

BTW insulate them both, this stops them warming up in the summer and encouraging algae and fungal growth.

 

[leakydave]

I know it sounds daft but I saw a bloke do this: old tank was short, narrow and fairly tall: new tank long wide and not very high... you can guess what happened... so make sure the tops of your tanks are similar heights...

The WORST smell I EVER smelt was from a very large posh house in Herefordshire. No mains water: bore hole with pump. 4 tanks connected in horse shoe pattern in loft. 1st tank cold feed from bore hole AND outlet to cylinder, taps etc... 2nd tank bit stagnant, 3rd tank smelt awful and the smell from the 4th tank took out all the hairs from my nasal passage, and I could smell the smell for weeks after. It was full of stagnant water that had been static for months/years... the WORST thing: I'd been given a cup of tea that got its water from this tank just a few minutes before inspecting them!

 

[Nige F]

but that was Boiled water ...imagine an orange squash

 

[leakydave]

orange squash... looked the same as the tap water but the taste was something very different...

 

[The Baker]

Pop into your local public library and have a look at the water by laws.

The relevant section will give a sketch of how you should couple two tanks up so as to prevent the build up of water born micro organisms.

As the reason for two tanks is mainly to serve a shower and so will actually be feeding both the cold to the shower plus the hot to the shower via the hot cylinder it may be preferable to provide a separate ball valve to each tank.

Then take a cold feed from each tank and joint them prior to connecting them to the cylinder and shower.

This way both tanks get a fresh supply of water each time the draw off points are used.

Also, in view of the death by scalding of a baby last November, please make sure the tanks are adequately supported.

Tim

PS, is the hot outlet connection on the cylinder correctly positioned?

 

[leakydave]

I don't think you need to have two ball valves... just make sure they are joined in at least 22mm pipe and you draw water from the tank that doesn't have a ball valve.

 

[The Baker]

I lack the skill to post up a picture of what I would like to illustrate but having thought about your twin tank post I can say that you may find it easyer to use two ball valve.

The alternativ is to link the tanks as leakydave suggests but if not linked at high and low level you could end up with the top 6 to 8 inches of water of the second tank becoming stagnent, dont be tight fisted the aditional ball valve and pipe only cost about a tenner, go on spoil your self.

Tim

PS The reason a lot of diy work is not up to the required standard is due to the relevent important info being hidden away by vested interests. who want to charge you for it.

 

[Softus]

PS The reason a lot of diy work is not up to the required standard is due to the relevent important info being hidden away by vested interests. who want to charge you for it.

Oh, please do expand on this!

I'm very keen to hear why you think it appropriate to generate this kind of propaganda on a web site on which the advice is all free.

Let's hear it.