Which wood tio make an external door out of?

[bullethead123]

Hi all,
I need to replace a door to an outside loo that is now used for storage.
The current door is 6ft tall by 70 cm wide but I can only find 90cm wide doors, so I thought I'd make one. What kind of wood shd I use to do this?
I'm thinking tounge and groove in a gate style.
Any tips relating to this carpentry challange greatly recieved.
Thanks all.

 

[Alec_t]

Ensure the support-framing of the T&G has diagonal bracing to prevent door sag.

 

[foxhole]

Quick, easy, cheap option is a ply or osb sheet cut to size then clad with pallet timber , stained or oiled ( decking oil ).

 

[mrrusty]

I need to replace a door to an outside loo that is now used for storage.

unless the door is absolutely shot, it's likely to be old wood that is far better than any new wood you are likely to buy without spoending ££££. Is it unusable? irreparable? photos?

 

[bullethead123]

Thanks for all the replies.
I just bought some of this T&G and some bracing battens.
Though not pressure treated it says it is suitable for outside if treated

. I'm thinking of using some black 'barn paint' I have. It is waterbased. Maybe a thinned down 1st coat and a second coat.or would stain & varnish be better agin the weather?
Also, I guess screws would be better tgan nails. Galvanised screws perhaps?
What do you all think?

 

[mrrusty]

Honestly? If you haven't opened it, take it back for a refund. It isn't really suitable for making a door out of with battens unless you want the flimsiest door....

If you do want to use it, make a frame out of 1 1/2" X 3, fit some diagonal braces and top/bottom supports out of 1" thick timber and then T&G the panel with that cladding so that the cladding fitted to the 1" thick timber lines up on the face with the 1 1/2" timber frame, cutting off the tongue/groove at the sides of the infill. But that does assume some DIY woodworking skills and some tools...

 

[bullethead123]

Just why is it unsuitable as the door to an old o/s loo currently used to store garden tools?
Would it be suitable if it were pressure treated?
The cladding is the same thickness as the old door - which is totally knackerd btw.

I do intend to frame the door with 1x 1&1/2" battening, putting a crossmember and diagonal bracing of the same battening in and yes, I intend to leave square edges, cutting off the end tongue and groove.

Which screws?
Paint or varnish?

 

[mrrusty]

Can we have a photo of the old door? Old boarded doors tended to be pitch pine which is a far more durable, stable and robust material than the carpy whitewood we get now. With just 1 x 1/12 battens it will be flimsy, will expand and contract hugely with the weather and will probably warp and twist as well. Generally for fitting T&G for an outside application you would use nails which will accommodate the expansion and contraction better than brittle screws. I think you have to decide whether you are making a door to fit snugly in a frame, or just a gate to close off an opening....

 

[bullethead123]

Thanks for your detailed responses Mr Rusty.
Here are a few photos of the old door/frame.
It doesn't seem repairable to me. I note the old door has 6"x1" planks as cross bracing but no frame as such. I guess I could copy this design incorporating a 3x1" frame and diagonal bracing.
I imagine the door will be largely protected from water ingress due to it being within an alcove when closed but direct sunlight will certainly be a problem. Would black 'barn paint be suitabke fir this? I do want it to fit within the frame though snugness is not a real concern.
I do have (probably) the necessary tools to make such a door. Circular saw, mitre saw, large square and even a woodworking bench (I've just fitted a kitchen inc worktops).
You seem to know what you're talking about. How should I proceed. I don't mind returning the kiln dried softwood if needed.
Thanks once again,
Chris.

 

[Deluks]

You could quite easily just replicate that, no problem using KD if it will be primed and then painted twice.
Copying existing is far easier than designing from scratch. Just be sure to add a weather bar at the bottom, with a bead of sealant on the top edge. You could also leave a small gap at the bottom and attach a rubber strip where it touches the floor.

 

[Deluks]

If cut the rotten ends off of those vertical boards, you might be able to reuse them as horizontals.

 

[bullethead123]

Hi all,
Here's the door I came up with. The crossmembers are of 5 1/2" x 1 1/4" and frame 2 3/4" x 1 1/4" planks i rescued from a bed I was getting rid of and brace the planks of kiln dried T&G highlighted earlier.
I treated and varnished the finished door with the products shown in the third photo, 3 coats of treatment and 2 coats of varnish.
Gonna hang it on Friday. Any tips?

 

[Why Not Indeed]

You've built a hefty-looking door there, should last you decades if you keep on top of the treatment.
I do wonder how the previous door got to the state it's in, it looks reasonably well sheltered there.

 

[bullethead123]

Thanks for the tips Delux.
Yes WNI, it looks good but maybe I've over engineered it a bit. Damn thing is pretty heavy so I'm concerned the hinges will not support the weight. I'm using 3 hinges, they come to just over halfway across the door. I can't really go any bigger as I am limited by the width of the doorframe.
As to why old door got in that state, I've no idea. It has been in for at least 35 years and is subject to direct sunlight.

 

[Odds]

You've built a hefty-looking door there, should last you decades if you keep on top of the treatment.
I do wonder how the previous door got to the state it's in, it looks reasonably well sheltered there.

Looks to me like the thin planks couldn't take the strain of being slammed shut and the sun looks like it leached the life out of them, alongside the rainfall.