Whirlpool Bath

RDP

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Bedfordshire
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This is my first post, so please treat me gently (as everyone seems to say).

I'm doing the 1st fix on a self build first floor extension and would like to incorporate wiring for a Whirlpool bath. I have read most of the posts on this subject, but would appreciate knowing if what I propose to do is likely to be acceptable.

I am planning to spur off a new ring main that I am installing in the adjoining bedroom, fit an RCD FCU on the spur and route the cable through the stud wall to either an IP68 rated waterproof junction box on the wall under the bath, or to a IP67 waterproof cable joint, to which the supply cable from the motor can be connected.

Now the questions:

1.) The ring main will be connected to a split load CU on the 30mA RCD protected side, so is an additional RCD protected FCU necessary, or would a normal FCU be OK?

2.) Is a triple pole isolator required as well as the FCU?

3.) Will it be acceptable to position it on the wall above the door IN the bathroom? From what I've read it would seem that as long as its above 2.25m and more than 0.6m from the bath or basin that it is "out of zone".

Thanks for any help that I may receive.

(P.S. Building Control are already notified)
 
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Personally I would use a D.P. pull switch in the bathroom & connect the cable from the bath direct to the fcu rather than use a junction box. What do the instalation instructions say about current ratings etc? Also you need to check bonding requirements. Only one RCD required.
 
Thanks JJ4091

I havn't got the bath yet, so I'm not sure what the current rating will be. But from what I gather they are usually put on a 5 amp fuse.

I was hoping to fit an isolation switch instead, to avoid having to have three pull cords in the bathroom. One for the fan isolator, one for the Whirlpool isolator and one for the light.

I need to read up a bit more about equipotential bonding too. ALL the pipework in the bathroom is PEX plastic, so I don't fully understand what I would be bonding the pump to. There will be a chrome towel rad, but that will be fed by PEX pipe as well. Perhaps someone could enlighten me on that too if they can.
 
for the supplimentary bonding you will need to bond the pump to any other circuits that enter the bathroom. in this case that will presumably be the lighting circuit. Will you have a shaver socket? If so and it is on a different ring or lighting circuit then this needs bonding too
If all incoming pipes are plastic then you don't have to bond them or whatever is on the end of them.
 
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RDP said:
Thanks JJ4091

I havn't got the bath yet, so I'm not sure what the current rating will be. But from what I gather they are usually put on a 5 amp fuse.

I was hoping to fit an isolation switch instead, to avoid having to have three pull cords in the bathroom. One for the fan isolator, one for the Whirlpool isolator and one for the light.

I need to read up a bit more about equipotential bonding too. ALL the pipework in the bathroom is PEX plastic, so I don't fully understand what I would be bonding the pump to. There will be a chrome towel rad, but that will be fed by PEX pipe as well. Perhaps someone could enlighten me on that too if they can.

Will this help it is instructions for a WP bath, whether it is the one you're fitting or not, it should be similar. Plus there is a supprt line:

http://www.whirlpoolexpress.co.uk/pdf/10_12 jet_kit_instructions.pdf

;)
 
Thanks for the new info. It looks from that link like the waterproof junction box under the bath is the way to go. The underneath of the bath will be boxed in, so from what I have read it will be 'out of zone'.

Does anyone have any other advice as to whether if I were to put the fan isolation switch & whirlpool FCU high on the wall in the bathroom at above 2.25m it will be 'out of zone' too and therefore acceptable?
 
[.

Does anyone have any other advice as to whether if I were to put the fan isolation switch & whirlpool FCU high on the wall in the bathroom at above 2.25m it will be 'out of zone' too and therefore acceptable?[/quote]

As far as I'm aware, yes.
The idea is that you're not supposed to be able to touch it whilst wet. So at that height it should be ok.
 
BS7671 said:
"every switch or other means of electrical control or adjustment shall be so situated as to be normally innaccessible to a person using a fixed bath or shower"

So basically it is ok providing they are mounted in zone 3 or beyond.

Personally I do not fit 230V switches in bathrooms (except pull cord switches). Outside the bathroom is a far better position.
 
New here, buy this was a really useful posting, so many thanks

I'm doing a similar thing but I'd missed the RCD FCU from my circuit. I had a SFCU of a new ring that i'd installed (all work in progress), running to a spur that I will run under the bath.

I've now bought a RCD FCU looking at the instructions they are suggesting you install the unit before the SFCU - it would be easier if I can install it after - does it make any real difference which is first on the spur?
 

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