Why are ELECTRICAL WIRES attatched to my kitchen sink??????

yes

you should add Supplementary Bonding to each metallic service that enters the bathroom, and the earthwire of each electrical service that enters the bathroom. this is probably radiator flow and return, hot water, cold water, light circuit. may include immersion heater circuit, electric shower circuit, shaver point circuit, electric heater circuit, central heating pump, cylinder thermostat, iron soil pipe, metal waste pipe. the purpose is that even if e.g. you sit, wet and naked, on an iron bath and touch a metal tap with one foot and a metal radiator with the other, while changing a bulb in a metal light fitting, you cannot get an electric shock as they are all bonded with copper wire, which will carry any fault current and hold them all at the same potential. by doing this in the bathroom, it will keep you safe even if there is a fault elsewhere in the house. Wet, naked skin gives a much higher risk of fatal shock than in other parts of the house, if there should be a fault

There are conditions when you do not have to do this, but unless you have a new, modern and good, electrical installation these will not all apply so it is easier just to do the bonding.

Bond the pipes where they enter the bathroom, or immediately outside (e.g. in an adjacent airing cupboard). you only need to bond each metal pipe once (e.g. you bond the hot pipe once, you do not have to bond it at the bath tap, and the basin tap, and the shower tap) and each circuit once (e.g. at the light switch, and not at all ten of your downlighters)

You get a more reliable connection if you use a single piece of G&Y, stripping off the insulation at each clip and running round all the connections. rather than several short pieces, in case one of the joints becomes detached.



More information in the Wiki - //www.diynot.com/wiki/electric...l_bonding:supplementary_equipotential_bonding

You also have to do Main Bonding of the incoming services (Gas, Water, Oil) where they enter your house - see Wiki

This work is not notifiable and you are allowed to do it yourself. You can pay an electrician if you prefer, but most of the cost will be his time clambering about on the floor and getting dirty, which is not skilled work. Testing it however does need equipment which you are unlikely to own. But I would guess that about 99% of houses have bonding which has not been professionally tested.
 
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Thanks John D.

I've checked the hot water tank and it seems the pipe going into the bathroom does have an earth bonding. There is no electrics in the bathroom other than the lights.

There is a plastic elbow joint dowwnstairs, a plastic one upstairs so I will bridge the downstairs one, but the pipes going to the bath and sink taps are all plastic anyway making them impossible to bond.

We have no emersion heater. Am I right in thinkign as a verty basic test I could check the continunity between the say the kitchen sink and the boiler?
 
it won't do any harm but you will not get a good indication of the quality of the earth.

the resistance should be a fraction of an ohm, if you have a multimeter (most DIY multimeters are not very sensitive, and you will not know how the connection works when there is a fault current going through it).

if you have an electrical appliance earthed via the plug, such as a metal kettle, you should expect to find continuity between the kettle, the metal pipes, the cooker, the hot water cylinder, and any metal pipes entering the bathroom.

If you find any voltage between any of these there is something wrong
 
Thanks just checked the bonding between a tumbe dryer (plugged in and scrapped a little bit of paint off so it would conduct) when I check the continunity between the tumble dryer and the radiator it shows a fraction of an Ohm, but when I check between the sink and the dryer there is huge amount of resistance.

I know this is a very basic test and my multi meter will not be that accurate it surely highlights their is a problemw ith the sink bonding? Something I suspected a while ago.
 
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kitchen sinks are usually "accidentally" earthed via the metal pipes. Do you have metal pipes, or plastic? Are there any joints that might interrrupt the contact? or maybe rubber or plastic washers between the taps and sink?

sinks are not nowadays considered to require to be bonded additionally, since they are not connected to anything that could introduce a voltage. It is many years since you were required to add bonding wires to a sink.
 
There is a plastic eblow joint between the main water supply from the ground and the cold tap this is not bridged but the person who fitted the sink was a relative who used to be a qualified 15th edition spark so I assume he would have noticed if that is causing major problems.

The hot water and heating system seem to have a very good bond, there is virtualy no resistance showing at all.

Again I know my tests are very primative :).
 

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