Why can't my new Bosch (2.35kW) oven plug into ring main?

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I have a new Bosch HBN331E0B electric oven.

The supplier (Comet) states that it must be hard-wired, and this is also mentioned in a number of references I've found on the web.

The manufacturer's installation instructions say that it must be connected by a licensed specialist, and otherwise only states that the connection lead should be H05-VV-F or higher, which I know just means 300/500V pvc insulated, pvc sleeved flexible cable, and that an all-pole isolating switch with a contact gap measuring at least 3mm must be available. They refer to the connection diagram on the unit, but all this shows is three terminals, unsurprisingly labelled as PE (with an earth symbol) L & N.

The rating plate shows the oven as being 2.35kW.

Is the requirement to hard wire and use this isolating switch not overkill/overengineering? By my reckoning, 2.35 kW is approximately 10A, well within the capability of a ring main socket, and providing that socket is accessible and switched, why would this not meet the needs?

I did wonder if it could be because there is a combined grill, and if the oven rating excludes the grill, but I doubt it - there is no seperate figure shown for the grill, and it is a single oven, so only one can be used at a time, either the oven or the grill, unlike a double oven where they usually allow for the worst case of having either two ovens or an oven and a grill operational simultaneously, hence I feel certain the word oven used on the rating plate in this case must encompass the whole device there being no other figure available.

I really don't feel inclined to pay for the call-out fee of a sparky, which would no doubt be £50 plus at least, to get an over-engineered installation just because manufacturer/supplier prefer to cover their backsides by overstating the case. If I've missed a point, however, and this really is required in order to be safe, I will willingly take the appropriate action.
 
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Why should continental manufacturers care about strange British wiring?

If you bought a similar oven by Hotpoint, chances are they would say either a 13A plug or a 20A isolator with 3mm gap.
 
Have you had an electric oven/grill in the past? How old is your house? You may have a cooker connection point already installed.
 
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Why should continental manufacturers care about strange British wiring?

They have to if they want to sell their goods in the UK.

To ensure there are no issues with warranty - follow the manufacturers instructions - also a requirement of BS7671 134.1.1

If you bought a similar oven by Hotpoint, chances are they would say either a 13A plug or a 20A isolator with 3mm gap.

But the OP hasn't so this is irrevelant!
 
Have you had an electric oven/grill in the past? How old is your house? You may have a cooker connection point already installed.
Chances are, the maximum current rating CB allowed for this oven will be 16A. The CB on a cooker point might be 40A. Changing CB ratings is probably notifiable to local BC.
 
Why should continental manufacturers care about strange British wiring?

They have to if they want to sell their goods in the UK.
They only have to specify one connection method that is legal. They can ignore other methods that are more convenient.

The OP might be able to exchange his exotic oven for a home grown one.
 
Zanussi say you can use 13A Plug but some ovens and hobs used in Europe are designed to have a split phase supply so use a 5 core lead. It would be hard to fit a standard 13A plug to a five core lead.

One has to follow manufactures instructions however nothing says you need to follow suppliers instructions. Although where not of UK manufacture you may need to follow importers instructions.

If you look at installation instructions it states "Do not connect with 13A plug or 13A fuse" and it also states current 16A. So you can't use a FCU as these are only 13A not 16A. So it needs it's dedicated 16A supply protected with a fuse or MCB likely fitted in consumer unit not at point of connection.

See Link is it so hard to follow manufactures recommendations?
 
is it so hard to follow manufactures recommendations?
It is not legal for the consumer to follow the manufacturer's instructions if they are not a licensed installer. Germans are obsessed with licensing and other restrictive practices.
 
If you look at installation instructions it states "Do not connect with 13A plug or 13A fuse" and it also states current 16A. So you can't use a FCU as these are only 13A not 16A. So it needs it's dedicated 16A supply protected with a fuse or MCB likely fitted in consumer unit not at point of connection.

No it doesn't! I included all of the wording regarding electrical connection from the installation instructions in my original question. I don't know what document you got this from, it most certainly isn't the one I got with the device. To reiterate from my original posting, the installation instructions only include the following regarding :

It does say it should be installed by a licensed specialist; it does say use HS05-VV-F lead, it does say follow the connection diagram, which is clearly a single phase connection (the diagram simply shows 3 terminals labelled PE L & N) and it does say to use the all-pole isolation switch with minimum 3mm gap.

The MCB in the consumer unit would not meet the requirement for the isolation switch, as it has to be a means of isolation within reach of the device itself, given that it is not for protection of the wiring from fire, but for isolation of the device for safety reasons. MCB's are not isolation switches, they are protection devices that also provide a means of basic circuit isolation.

I also noted with interest that, in another topic posting, the use of a 32A MCB for a theoretical maximum load of 48A, was justified on the basis of diversity being sufficient. On that basis, though there may be less diversity in a single oven of this nature, what there is must surely provide even more safety margin within the 10A figure I originally mentioned.

As for whether it's so hard to follow manufacturer's instructions, the answer is yes, if those instructions are over-engineered, and the cost of following them is likely to be in the region of half what I payed for the oven to start off with.

I just want to know if I'm wrong to think that it is a case of over-engineering. So far I've seen nothing to convince me that I am wrong.
Incidentally, I did have an oven previously, it was connected via 13A plug to a ring-main socket, hence my dilemma.
 
If you look at installation instructions it states "Do not connect with 13A plug or 13A fuse" and it also states current 16A. So you can't use a FCU as these are only 13A not 16A. So it needs it's dedicated 16A supply protected with a fuse or MCB likely fitted in consumer unit not at point of connection.

No it doesn't! I included all of the wording regarding electrical connection from the installation instructions in my original question. I don't know what document you got this from, it most certainly isn't the one I got with the device. To reiterate from my original posting, the installation instructions only include the following regarding :

It does say it should be installed by a licensed specialist; it does say use HS05-VV-F lead, it does say follow the connection diagram, which is clearly a single phase connection (the diagram simply shows 3 terminals labelled PE L & N) and it does say to use the all-pole isolation switch with minimum 3mm gap.

The MCB in the consumer unit would not meet the requirement for the isolation switch, as it has to be a means of isolation within reach of the device itself, given that it is not for protection of the wiring from fire, but for isolation of the device for safety reasons. MCB's are not isolation switches, they are protection devices that also provide a means of basic circuit isolation.

I also noted with interest that, in another topic posting, the use of a 32A MCB for a theoretical maximum load of 48A, was justified on the basis of diversity being sufficient. On that basis, though there may be less diversity in a single oven of this nature, what there is must surely provide even more safety margin within the 10A figure I originally mentioned.

As for whether it's so hard to follow manufacturer's instructions, the answer is yes, if those instructions are over-engineered, and the cost of following them is likely to be in the region of half what I payed for the oven to start off with.

I just want to know if I'm wrong to think that it is a case of over-engineering. So far I've seen nothing to convince me that I am wrong.
Incidentally, I did have an oven previously, it was connected via 13A plug to a ring-main socket, hence my dilemma.

Bit of red bit of blue -sitting on the fence then!!

You seem to have made you mind up mate so carry on.
 
If you look at installation instructions it states "Do not connect with 13A plug or 13A fuse" and it also states current 16A. So you can't use a FCU as these are only 13A not 16A. So it needs it's dedicated 16A supply protected with a fuse or MCB likely fitted in consumer unit not at point of connection.

No it doesn't! I included all of the wording regarding electrical connection from the installation instructions in my original question. I don't know what document you got this from, it most certainly isn't the one I got with the device. To reiterate from my original posting, the installation instructions only include the following regarding :

It does say it should be installed by a licensed specialist; it does say use HS05-VV-F lead, it does say follow the connection diagram, which is clearly a single phase connection (the diagram simply shows 3 terminals labelled PE L & N) and it does say to use the all-pole isolation switch with minimum 3mm gap.

.

Your instruction here https://portal.bsh-partner.com/portal(bD1kZSZjPTAwOQ==)/PORTALFRAME.HTM. Is the USER manual - which is what you use.

Where as this
https://portal.bsh-partner.com/portal(bD1kZSZjPTAwOQ==)/PORTALFRAME.HTM is the INSTALLATION manual - which is what we use.
 

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