Why is my circular saw running backwards?

[Ricardus]

Not a DIY disaster as such...

Went to cut some 15mm blockboard so dug out my trusty Homebase own brand circular saw, complete with Screwfix own brand (titan) fine cut blade.

I'd last used this to shave 5mm off the end of a laminate worktop, and the blade was distinctly burned around the teeth so when woodsmoke started issuing out the saw after 3 inches of hard cutting I figured it was time to replace the blade. I'd picked up another cheapo Titan fine cut blade some time previously just in case.

Bolted it in, spun the saw up and thought "Hang on, why is it running anti-clockwise? The arrow on the blade says clockwi - D'OH!"

I had assumed the side of the blade with the writing on it went to the outside of the saw, just like the original blade that had come with the saw, and not thought to check the rotation of the saw compared to the new blades.

Took out the new blade, put the old (burned) one back in, this time the right way round, and would you believe it cut like a dream?

 

[big-all]

some machines have the motor on the rhs [ryobi 18v for example]most have it on the lhs so when you fit the blade the writing is visible

 

[Ricardus]

The motor is on the Left side, but it spins anticlockwise.
Odd, but as it was under £25 and I'll probably use it three or four times a year I can live with it.

 

[big-all]

thats correct maybe my description is wrong lol

the blade on any machine will always pull the work onto the baseplate or table
a blade will never cut the wrong way as it will just push up and away in the opposit direction

 

[mattylad]

I have a 400w hobby circular saw table that does something like this.

Either the blade does not start or may spin the wrong way.

When it does not start turning I just move it along with a bit of wood.

Its pretty useless anyway, a very thin blade & hard to keep a straight line.

 

[conny]

Matty, if you need to 'push-start' the blade then one of 2 things has happened.
A/ You have a blown capacitor in the start winding.
B/ The 'start winding' is burnt out.

The former is quite easy to replace to anyone with basic electrical knowledge, or indeed any competent DIYer with a little care. You need to obtain a replacement 'cappy' from an electrical tool shop and fit it exactly as the present one is. Try to get a replica or if not possible one with a 'slightly' higher capacitance, (uf), but it must be the same voltage.
If the start winding is burnt out then its cheaper, (and safer for you), to buy a new saw.

 

[mattylad]

Cheers Conny, if I ever get a chance I'll have a look.

I'll have a replacement cap in my junk somewhere.

I got it given for free.

I have the same problem with my tile saw, I'll look at that one day