Wickes joint sealing compound

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Wickes sell tubes of something that smells and looks like a thick silicone. It's used for sealing pipe joints and temporary repairs to rads etc. Is this the same stuff that you can put on olives to seal them better? Or is it just for the threads? Would it leak in a few weeks time if applied to olives? Any ideas anyone?


joe
 
Their version of Fernox LSX. Nice new compressions shouldn't need it-but when the need for 'belt and braces' occurs, eg new fitting onto old nut and olive, its ideal. I use it anywhere I can to avoid ptfe, especially rad tails- seals first time every time. Costly in relation though as once opened it isn't long before you have to spike the tube to get any out.
 
Hi, just a silly thought on this subject. I was leaving the plumber's merchant's with a tube of LSX in one hand & tube of clear silicone in the other. Now it seems to me [simple country yokel] that there's not a lot of difference, except LSX is 10x the price. It feels, smells [didn't taste it] the same. I think we're being ripped off here, or do you just get cynical with old age? [I can never find the question mark on the key board!].

Mark

Milk, no sugar ta.
 
Think it goes off quicker, especially in contact with water, and probably to a less pliable consistency.
 
joe-90 said:
Is this the same stuff that you can put on olives to seal them better? Or is it just for the threads? Would it leak in a few weeks time if applied to olives? Any ideas anyone?
I don't mean to be patronising here, but the idea of sealant on a brand new olive is ludicrous. And anything at all on the threads? Madness.
 
gasmarkone said:
...there's not a lot of difference, except LSX is 10x the price. It feels, smells [didn't taste it] the same. I think we're being ripped off here, or do you just get cynical with old age?
Fernox claim that LSX is suitable for use at high temperatures, which I find to be borne out in practice.

Sanitary sealant manufacturers make no such claim.
 
Your better with a wrap of PTFE round the olive if you suspect there is a chance of it leaking, jointing compound only makes a mess, makes it harder in future for the joint to become undone and costs more than a three inch length of PTFE.
 
Boss white boss white boss white boss white boss white boss white :lol: :wink: just call me TRex microbiological growth, my arse
 
Agree about the cost Harro but not the other bits. Still, wouldn't it be a dull old life if we all were the same!
 
My pet beef with LS-X is that they'r made the cap weak ON PURPOSE so it breaks easily and the stuff goes off.
Look at a section of the cap and you'll see a deep groove, which is where it always splits. If you fill the cap (outside) with a glue gun, or even the LS-X itself, it lasts a bit longer.

WOuldn't use it as standard but handy when using mix of old/new fittings, or troublesome cheap bits. On top of ptfe it helps prevent things twist..
 
My pet hate with ptfe is getting things like pressure guages to end up the right way, (a touch of OCD perhaps!) seems to take 99 efforts. So try LSX over the top to 'glue' it in place? Cheers Chris.
 
Nige F said:
Boss white boss white boss white boss white boss white boss white :lol: :wink: just call me TRex microbiological growth, my a**e
I'm for PTFE. I don't believe Boss white without hemp achieves anything, because, unlike PTFE, there's no limit to much you can squeeze out of the joint. It's also capable of being washed away over time, which PTFE isn't, and, to top it all, the yuckiness justs adds time to any job, especially when dismantling.
 
ChrisR said:
My pet beef with LS-X is that they'r made the cap weak ON PURPOSE...
I agree. Especially since I've twice Emailed Fernox and asked if I can buy some spare caps. They completly ignored me, both times.
 
Someone said put PTFE over a suspect olive. Is this right? I've heard that it makes things worse.


joe
 
If I didn't like the look of an olive then I'd replace it, but I don't see how PTFE can make it worse, as long as it's applied evenly.
 

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