will silicon between the bowl and tile raise the toilet

[samj]

Hi

The pan collar is not glued to the wall PVC yet. I still have the chance to change it with an off centric one.

My question is, where will I put the silicon to glue the pan on to the tile? Do I put lots of silicon on the tile around the circumference of the toilet base edge as well as under the edge? Is that good enough to hold it in place? Will it raise the bowl? If so, do I need to install the off centric collar instead of the current straight one?

thx

 

[seco services]

the pans got screw holes thats what they're for. use them.

 

[samj]

the pans got screw holes thats what they're for. use them.

Well.

I will have to find a way to fix a nut into the tile and a screw that will go through the toilet body and screws down onto the tile.

I do not think a stud that is sticking out of the tile will work because I will have slide the toilet bowl horizontally into the collar and on the tile.

now, how am I going to get a nut fixed onto the tile?

 

[mikej2005]

Screws and nuts ? Use two large screws and two large rawplugs.

Be careful not to over-tighten the screws - a plastic or rubber washer would also be a good idea to reduce the risk of cracking the pan.

You can often buy kits comprising of the above items - and they'll also contain plastic caps to hide the screw heads. The screws often have hexagonal bolt-style heads, which you can tighten with a spanner or suitable socket.

 

[samj]

how can I drill into the tile into the concrete slab with out cracking the tile.
do I use a normal drill bit for the tile then a concrete bit "hammering" into the concrete?

 

[ThatsNotPlumb]

If the waste is currently sitting at the correct height as well as sticking far enough out of wall to reach the toilet pan when you set the complete toilet (cistern etc) in place then its spot on.

Slot her in place then when your happy that it is all sitting square etc then use a pencil or something to stick through the pan & mark your holes. Then take the pan away & identify your marks. Your ready for drilling, use a standard masonry drill bit to fit whatever drill your using however make sure & take the hammer off the drill & take it nice and steady. Only whenever you are about half way through the tile would it be safe (depending on how fragile the tile is) to switch hammer back on to push through the rest of the tile & into the concrete. Thats the method I use & I've drilled 1000's of holes in different types of tiles with none cracking.. yet

I also know you can get special tile drilling bits designed especially for the job. I've never had to buy one myself however I have used one on glass tiles & they work a treat.

If you really want to be cautious put some masking or electrical tape over your mark before you drill, I would only worry about tape if I was drilling a tiled wall though as opposed to a floor.. but thats just me.

 

[rojaca]

Before you started this exercise, did you make sure that the rainwater drain that your connecting into is part of a combined sewer pipe system?
I'm not sure how they do things in australia.

 

[samj]

Before you started this exercise, did you make sure that the rainwater drain that your connecting into is part of a combined sewer pipe system?
I'm not sure how they do things in australia.

it is not rainwater drain but sewer. the upstream pipe is for smell only "stinky pipe".

 

[mikej2005]

If the hole is the correct diameter for the raw plug and the raw plug is flush with the surface of the tile, then there is a risk of the tile cracking when the screw is screwed down as the plug may expand slightly. This is certainly the case for tiles with a porcelain/ceramic (ie. shiny) surface coating anyway - floor tiles like yours may behave differently.

If you're concerned about this, then you've got two options to reduce the risk of this happening - either push the raw plug further down to below the surface of the tile, or drill the tile (not the hole beneath) to a slightly larger diameter (large enough to accomodate the raw plug plus the screw).

I find drilling into tiles easier if I start with a smaller masonary drill bit (eg. 4mm) first and then increase the size gradually to the size required.

You obviously also need to be happy that there are no pipes or cables in the floor where you need to drill.

 

[seco services]

toilet fixing kits.

 

[rojaca]

'ickle tip. Tap centre point where your going to drill with hammer and nail(or screw) Not too heavily. Just takes glaze off tile and stops the bit from skidding around when you first start drilling.

Another thing i've found looks quitte nice is if you split 15mm to 8mm reducing sets they make quite attractive brass washers for sanitary ware esp if brassware is brass.

 

[rojaca]

P.S Stinky pipe. I like it. Shall now only refer to S&V as soil and stinky pipe