Wireless roomstat
- Thread starter Softus
- Start date
Sponsored Links
Thanks for all that. This could get complicated anyway because there are two zones, one of which is a triple zone u/floor manifold, and I haven't yet applied myself to working out how the two will interact. Appliance is a 24CDi running on LPG. I'll relate my experiences here if anyone is interested.
Sponsored Links
it must just be me then with press the I button, but ensure that you are standing on one leg, failure to do this will result in the stat spontaneously combusting
rather than press two butoons wait for alarm to stop flashing then push up the right drawer then the left one up
job done..
rather than press two butoons wait for alarm to stop flashing then push up the right drawer then the left one up
job done..
I like the simple Drayton which is just a dial, they also do a cylinder stat the same. On an old gravity system converting to system boiler same boiler location (made possible by the boiler manufacturers who are supporting our needs by providing ploom management kits, so they now get my vote), you have all the pipes in the right place, put zone valves or mid position valve next to boiler, use radio stats, and jobs a lot less labour all together.
City Plumbing stock a useful cheap radio programmable stat for £50 including. I can't remember the name. It has one downfall, the programs are only by the hour. There are 6 preprogrammed and 3 user. The instructions don't tell you haow to set the user programs, but keep pressing buttons and you can get the job done, it's not too bad. Like I say every start or finish time has to be per hour. However for a combi with a built in mechanical clock I suggest to people use the programmable roomstat as a cheap radiostat. I give them the choice, this or pay double. Funnily enough not many people go for the cheap one, it is in all other respects perfectly adequate.
[email protected] do a cheap range, I've had some of their stuff but what I had is so cheap looking I couldn't use it in any of my customers homes, and delivery is a big problem, I'm still waiting for a back order placed 3 months ago. They are however a very cheap source of some things that we could use in the UK.
City Plumbing stock a useful cheap radio programmable stat for £50 including. I can't remember the name. It has one downfall, the programs are only by the hour. There are 6 preprogrammed and 3 user. The instructions don't tell you haow to set the user programs, but keep pressing buttons and you can get the job done, it's not too bad. Like I say every start or finish time has to be per hour. However for a combi with a built in mechanical clock I suggest to people use the programmable roomstat as a cheap radiostat. I give them the choice, this or pay double. Funnily enough not many people go for the cheap one, it is in all other respects perfectly adequate.
[email protected] do a cheap range, I've had some of their stuff but what I had is so cheap looking I couldn't use it in any of my customers homes, and delivery is a big problem, I'm still waiting for a back order placed 3 months ago. They are however a very cheap source of some things that we could use in the UK.
I've sampled a couple of their cheap-but-interesting-looking prog stats, and I know another who has too. But they are perverse in the way they work, and very hard to suss out without instructions. They do one though with a clock face and two dials for temperature - high and low, tenant friendly. T007 Like the old Vaillant one but cheaper.
(Diy'ers - these guys are trade only.)
I had some cheapies where you program Temp1, Temp2 and Temp3 then apply them to times as required. They all had to come out - way beyond the tenants' abilities! CM67's they can handle.
I notice there's a flood of Chinese ones now, again with yet another way of thinking.
(Diy'ers - these guys are trade only.)
I had some cheapies where you program Temp1, Temp2 and Temp3 then apply them to times as required. They all had to come out - way beyond the tenants' abilities! CM67's they can handle.
I notice there's a flood of Chinese ones now, again with yet another way of thinking.
Hi,
It's driving me mad. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. Mostly it works in the morning. But in the evening it comes on for a few minutes then goes off for a few hours then comes on for the rest of the evening.
I know the pump is fine.
The green light is on, but there's no power going to the pump.
I've got a Digistat RF3 Room Thermometer which is definitely communicating with the SCR. When the flame is on the RF3, the green light is on on the SCR. When there's no flame, the green light is out.
But when the green light is on, it's a toss-up whether there is power to the pump or not.
Anyone come across this before?
Thanks
Frank
It's driving me mad. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. Mostly it works in the morning. But in the evening it comes on for a few minutes then goes off for a few hours then comes on for the rest of the evening.
I know the pump is fine.
The green light is on, but there's no power going to the pump.
I've got a Digistat RF3 Room Thermometer which is definitely communicating with the SCR. When the flame is on the RF3, the green light is on on the SCR. When there's no flame, the green light is out.
But when the green light is on, it's a toss-up whether there is power to the pump or not.
Anyone come across this before?
Thanks
Frank
For info, the SCR is wired as follows:frankjames1uk said:
N: Blue wire to power
L: Brown wire to power
1: Brown wire to power
2: Not connected
3: Blue wire to pump
and of course, the pump has the brown wire to power
frankjames1uk said:
I've had this. It's the switch in the receiver not working. The unit was 14 months old and I rang Insensysis who told me it was out of guarantee. To cut a long story short, I carried on by sending emails to allsorts of their people and about 6 months later got a repalcement.
I don't use Drayton RF anythings now and use the CM67RF instead.
Most of these devices are built with a switch which is adequately rated to meet the spec, but they don't last long. You could do with a relay to switch the load, however your RF3 is probably dead.
In case anyone is interested, this turned out to be simple.Softus said:
Given that the boiler is a combi, I wired the new two-port MZV (for the radiator circuit) exactly as any other installation that uses a Honeywell Sundial wiring centre (ref 42005748-001).
For the power wires for the wireless stat I treated it as a programmer.
For the switched live from the stat I treated it as a roomstat.
For the power for the u/floor heating controller I piggybacked onto the incoming power connector for the wiring centre.
I connected the switched live from the u/floor controller as if it were a two-port DHW MZV.
I regarded the system as having no electrical supplies to a pump, since the boiler included, and controlled, the pump.
Lastly, I made a single connection from the boiler switched live output on the wiring centre to the switched live input on the boiler, and cut the apporpriate links as per the easily followed instructions on the inside of the wiring centre cover.
Set the boiler to be permanently on, i.e. no "timed off" periods, leaving the system to be controlled by the timer functions in the two. All worked first time without any hitches.
FYI, I plumped for the CM67RFNG.
DIYnot Local
Staff member
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local
Sponsored Links
