Wireless Thermostat Question (should be simple)

[KingTurkish76]

Hi, great site.

Hopefully this should be an easy one. I've thought about this myself for a bit, but it's just worth the ask to be sure, so here goes.

I've got a Heatline Vizo 24 (the one from B+Q) and a wireless Drayton RF2 wireless thermo and reciever.

Now, the RF2 reciever needs a 230v feed, which is not a problem for me. The thing I am cautious about is that on the PCB of the Vizo it has a connection (currently looped) for a 230v connection. It says in the manual that for 230v supplied thermo I should use the 230v connection on the board.

But, the RF2 reciever, even though it is supplied with 230v uses a low voltage switch and from the RF2 diagram the 230v and low volt don't mix.

There is also a low voltage connection inside the Vizo which is also looped out near the front of the boiler. My guess is this is the one I should be unlooping and connecting to the switch terminals on the wireless reciever on the RF2.

So my question is, do I connect the low voltage cable from the Vizo to the RF2 switch terminals (this is what I think I should be doing) or do I cut into the 230v on the Vizo board and connect that to the switch terminals on the RF2 ?

Or is the 230v on the Vizo to supply the RF2 ?

Hope the above makes some sense and thanks for any help with this.

 

[Agile]

The receiver has volt free contacts. You just connect the boiler thermostat connections to that so it replaced the loop fitted inside the boiler.

I dont know what you are describing on the boiler. Most only have one connection point for a thermostat.

Tony

 

[KingTurkish76]

Thanks for the swift reply Tony. Just so I'm clear.

The reciever requires a 230v feed to work correctly. My guess is this because it uses the 230v feed to work the reciever part and to also activate the switch once the transmitter sends it a request for heat, am I correct on that part?

So, I wire in the 230v feed to the wireless reciever terminals L+N+E no problems there. Then using what I can only describe as bell cable, I unloop the low voltage connection loop just inside the boiler and run this to the low voltage switch terminal connections on the wireless reciever, in the case of the RF2 it's terminal 1 and 3?

It does make perfect sense to me that as a manufacturer of boilers they would not want you cutting loops on the boiler pcb. They obviously want to make things as easy as possible.

What threw me was this 230v loop on the boiler pcb and the manual saying "if connecting a 230v thermostat the 230v connection must be used as in figure 8" - Basically this is inside the boiler and shows the 230v loop. However, there is no polarity mentioned on this 230v loop, so it can't be a 230v feed from the board, correct?

But as I read the instruction for the RF2, it does not send 230v down the switch cable as it's described as low voltage connections, it must only use the 230v feed for the operation of the reciever and the switch.

I suppose I could take a scan of the boiler manual and the RF2 manual to be sure? Is this a good idea?

So with the advice recieved, thanks Tony, please just confirm if I've got the above right and then I'll just go for it as it does make sense to me.

Thanks,

 

[bengasman]

Compare the connection details from both installation manuals, that should make it perfectly clear. It is very simple, don't overcomplicate things

 

[KingTurkish76]

Ah, see that's my fault, I always do.

It's just conflicting information. I always think, low voltage to low voltage, high and low don't mix, so it's 230v from the mains to feed the reciever, that's a given as it's quite clear it needs it other wise it would not work.

Low voltage connections on the reciever say low voltage, so there is low voltage connection in the boiler, snap, they should go together so that's what we'll do.

Thanks for all the help and sorry for over complicating things, it's just what I do.