Wiring 240v GU10 spotlights

[diydazzler]

I knew I'd get replies like that,but this energy consumption argument is a load of *******s,in a bedroom at least.
Ask yourself how long you have the bedroom lights on....i doubt it's half an hour a day for most people.
AND I have the dimmer set quite low as I don't need a strong light in a bedroom do i !
All told I doubt there's much differnce overall in consumption over a 60 watter that cast shadows over the room .

My reply was for the OP's benefit not you anti-downlighter brigade,all you can spout is the same negative crap everytime.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I knew I'd get replies like that,but this energy consumption argument is a load of ****,in a bedroom at least.
Ask yourself how long you have the bedroom lights on....i doubt it's half an hour a day for most people.

I'm looking into putting some spotlights into the kitchen and landing

AND I have the dimmer set quite low as I don't need a strong light in a bedroom do i !

So why have 280W of it then?

All told I doubt there's much differnce overall in consumption over a 60 watter that cast shadows over the room

You are quite at liberty to doubt that.

You are also quite at liberty to be completely wrong. Which you are.

My reply was for the OP's benefit not you anti-downlighter brigade,all you can spout is the same negative crap everytime.

1) It's the same negative opinion because the inefficiency and lack of fitness for purpose are always the same.

2) It's not crap, as you have ably demonstrated with your wonderful "design".

 

[unlucky]

OK Ban-All-Sheds, you don't like spotlights, I can understand that, I don't like chandeliers so i'm not putting one in my house, they have lots of bulbs too, or candles...

I'm not trying to sell the idea for your house, just understand the pitfalls of the suggested design for mine, of which you have mentioned a couple, high power consumption (don't really mind as £80 a quarter atm doesn't loose me much sleep) and focussed light beam (more relevant, especially for the kitchen, not really for the landing)

I did mention that I would appreciate suggestions as to alternatives, so suggest away please fella, I'm looking for something that is in a recess and looks neat and clean.

Thanks,

Phil

 

[diydazzler]

AND I have the dimmer set quite low as I don't need a strong light in a bedroom do i !

So why have 280W of it then?


because the option when buying them was either 50w or 35w so i chose the lesser option which is more than plenty in my room hence the dimmer

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I did mention that I would appreciate suggestions as to alternatives, so suggest away please fella, I'm looking for something that is in a recess and looks neat and clean.

google PL downlights

What he said.

There's also the Thorn BaseLED product, or lights like this:

 

[unlucky]

Thanks Ban.

I'll look into the options.

Quick question regarding the lighting circuit, I have started to lay the cables in the loft for the upstairs lighting, switch drops and bathroom extractor fan.

I have started using 1.5mm cable, I know this is slightly overkill for a lighting circuit but have pushed up the csa due to the contact with insulation in the loft, upwards of 300mm.

Am I still going to be OK using the 1.5mm for the downstairs lighting circuit as well? My initial answer was yes but I'm just checking, easier to ask before than rip it out after it doesn't work.

Thanks

 

[Steve]

Yes. The good thing with 1.5mm is if needs be, you can install 10 amp lighting circuits. The effect of insulation on lighting cables is negligible due to the low load most carry.

And if I were wiring an unused loft, I'd run the cables up high around the roof timbers, with junction boxes fixed up there, and single cable drops to the lights and switches. Saves worrying about insulation, and complex wiring at the light fittings

 

[unlucky]

Steve,

You read my mind, thats exactly what I have done! Clipped to the rafters and then put 50*20mm batton down to the ceiling rose location on which I have run the incoming, out going and switch run, I then have a separate baton at the switch location in so there isn't a large amount of cable dangling from the rafters.

Are you suggesting I use a junction box screwed to the rafters to manage the incoming outgoing and switched live to keep the wiring in the ceiling rose as neat as possible?

Also, what would I need to use a 10amp lighting circuit for? Its good to know the first bit i've done is correct!!

 

[Steve]

Are you suggesting I use a junction box screwed to the rafters to manage the incoming outgoing and switched live to keep the wiring in the ceiling rose as neat as possible?

Yes, this is how our house was done in 1990, because we didnt have any ceiling roses. They were all ceiling fixed lights. Get some 4-terminal junction boxes and do your loop-ins there. Downstairs, I would suggest you do it at the switches - connect all your neutrals together in the back of the switch boxes. You end up with 3 cables to each switch (as opposed to the light).

Also, what would I need to use a 10amp lighting circuit for? Its good to know the first bit i've done is correct!!

In case you like downlighters - high consumption inefficient lighting! Most retail places have 10 amp lighting circuits, due to the sheer number of lights they have. Some industrial places will use 32A lighting circuits with local fusing for individual lights. The possibilities are endless!!!