Wiring a new receiver into a Rollertec motorised garage door

[ianb1965]

Bit of a long shot this one but would appreciate any advice...

My elderly neighbour has a motorised garage door with a Rollertec V2 control unit.

Her transmitter fob is knackered. It seems like it’s impossible to buy these now (grey 4 button one). It seems the most common solution is to buy a new receiver, with associated transmitters, and wire this in as an auxiliary switch.

Attached is the wiring diagram for the Rollertec. I’ve added in red where the output wires from the receiver are supposed to connect. But the instructions also state to then join T13 and T15 together (blue).

It’s a single channel receiver although the supplied transmitter fobs have three buttons. So I guess I have two questions:
1. Doesn’t the wiring suggest it will try and open and close at the same time?
2. If it’s a single channel receiver, how can it differentiate between the buttons on the fob?

Thanks all.

Ian

 

[oldbutnotdead]

I suspect you'd have to run the thing in Dead Man mode for your single channel receiver to work. Logic is this;
There are limit switches in the motor (not in the control box) so that current to UP is interrupted when the door is fully open, current to DOWN is similarly interrupted when the door is fully closed.
If your new receiver (wired as you've sketched) performs a make pulse when the door is EITHER wide open OR fully closed then the door will move to the other position (the pulse MAKES both OPEN and CLOSED control circuits. One of those circuits does nothing due to limit switches so the other is activated). If the door stops halfway then you're potentially in trouble.
Unless you've got beam detection across the door and pressure detection on the bottom of the door, running in dead man would be rather risky- I'd recommend getting a proper 2 channel controller. Like this one https://smile.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01ELJ1D1A/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A3DZZV2JIF5ZM2&psc=1 which I'm contemplating for a very similar job

 

[ianb1965]

Thanks for your reply. I appreciate it. I think I was coming to a similar conclusion, that it was relying on the position of the door to determine what to do which I agree isn’t ideal. Thanks for the link to the four channel one. I’m struggling to get my head round that. Each channel appears to have three outputs whereas the one single channel one I have has two outputs - ‘NO’ and ‘COM’. The wiring examples in the link don’t help and I can imagine the instructions won’t be great

 

[oldbutnotdead]

The relays on that card are SPDT- so each set of 3 terminals would be more usefully labelled as Normally Open, Common and Normally Closed. they're also volt free so don't worry about that 12v supply having to link across- it doesn't.
I'm not sure if it runs on push to run mode (there's a link top left of the card that probably determines that function), provided it does then pick 2 channels, common (T14) goes into B on both channels, Open (T13) goes into A on 1 channel, Close (T15) goes into A on the other.
Of course the joy with the orange boxshifters is if it doesn't do the job just send it back.
Handily enough you you can nick 12v from T10 and T12 to supply the card....

 

[ianb1965]

Yes, the incoming power is the easy bit. I’ll have a think about this- thank you. A few frightening reviews though!

 

[oldbutnotdead]

The one about car remotes is annoying and worrying. The rest of them look like idiots (no volts coming out of relay indeed). Not sure (and it may not tell you on the instructions) whether you can run 2 buttons at once in push to run mode- if you can then that would massively reduce issues from duplicate transmitters. Other tricks to use- if you have an alarm on your garage see if there are any volt free aux outputs on the panel. Mine has a set that I've configured to only be closed when the alarm is in standby- if armed or activated then the circuit goes open. There's a relay on the end of that circuit that interrupts the OPEN and CLOSE lines to the door motor (after the controller)- so unless the alarm is in standby (which would mean I'm in or near the garage) the controller can fire all it likes, door is going nowhere.

 

[sircerebus666]

http://www.ukgaragedoorspares.co.uk/sws-seceurosmart-hand-transmitter

Long shot - is this the correct transmitter?

 

[ianb1965]

http://www.ukgaragedoorspares.co.uk/sws-seceurosmart-hand-transmitter

Long shot - is this the correct transmitter?

Thanks for this. I did try searching but everywhere I found stated that it was no longer available. I’ll give them a call tomorrow to check compatibility as this would be the preferred option rather than the piggy back receivers.

 

[ianb1965]

The one about car remotes is annoying and worrying. The rest of them look like idiots (no volts coming out of relay indeed). Not sure (and it may not tell you on the instructions) whether you can run 2 buttons at once in push to run mode- if you can then that would massively reduce issues from duplicate transmitters. Other tricks to use- if you have an alarm on your garage see if there are any volt free aux outputs on the panel. Mine has a set that I've configured to only be closed when the alarm is in standby- if armed or activated then the circuit goes open. There's a relay on the end of that circuit that interrupts the OPEN and CLOSE lines to the door motor (after the controller)- so unless the alarm is in standby (which would mean I'm in or near the garage) the controller can fire all it likes, door is going nowhere.

Thanks for the advice. Going back to your original response, does the single channel design of the receiver mean that even though the supplied transmitter has three buttons, the same button will close and open the door (the opposite of the door’s current position) and presumably means you can’t stop the door half way?

 

[oldbutnotdead]

If the instructions are telling you to wire it as your sketch then I can't see how you'd be able to stop it halfway.