Wiring a Z-Wave Smart Light Switch

[john2k]

I've got a Z-Wave smart double light switch that I would like to try and install on one of the switches in my house. The light switch requires a permanent neutral at the switch which one of my light switch seems to have. Currently my light switch has a common wire which is live feed and then on each switch it has the L1 wire going to the light. I've attached a picture of the new Z-Wave light switch and the wiring diagram. Seems a bit unclear, can someone help explain where what wire goes from my old switch to this switch?

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Neutrals are not switch lines. And do not think if you have a black or blue cable present at switch it is a neutral. Picture of your wiring may help to establish what you have.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

The light switch requires a permanent neutral at the switch which one of my light switch seems to have.

We await confirmation of that. Basically if you are looking at a black or blue conductor connected to a switch terminal and thinking it's a neutral you are mistaken.

Currently my light switch has a common wire which is live feed and then on each switch it has the L1 wire going to the light.

Are you saying that your existing switch is a 2-gang?

If so that new switch is not a replacement - it does not control two separate loads.

 

[ericmark]

This stylish switch from TKBHome is designed to dim lights via the local paddle, or via Z-Wave control. It has 2 paddles, the left hand paddle controls the connected load (for dimming) - the right hand paddle controls another dimmer/switch via Z-Wave Association.

Please note: this means that the switch only directly controls a single load. The second paddle should be associated, using your Z-Wave controller/gateway, to another TKB switch (for wireless 2-way switching) or a device such as a Fibaro dimmer module or a Z-Wave bulb.

The switch is designed to be a direct replacement for an existing light switch and is a simple way to add Z-Wave control to your lighting circuits.
The switch is equipped with a neat LED indicator to help you locate it in a dark room (can be turned off via Z-Wave parameters)

The key thing to note, for UK consumers, is that this switch requires a neutral at the switch (3 wire system) which is less common in older UK wiring set-ups. If in doubt, please check with an electrician before purchasing.

What a load of rubbish how can anyone say it is a "direct replacement" then say "requires a neutral at the switch" it is clearly not a direct replacement, when I used a Mi|Home energenie light switch it was simply line in and line out like any UK switch, if the firm did not have UK in the title then I would say there was an excuse. There has been a move to have neutrals at the switch to allow fitting of the silly MR16 type lights, however the problem with that type of wiring is the volt drop, high loop impedance, and no supply for ceiling fan or emergency lighting.

Many of the special light switches do present problems, the one I have is rather large it needs a deep back box and no screw tags top and bottom, I did have to fit a new back box, but a light switch needing a neutral, just not British hay what!

I like the others will guess you have no neutral, you may have a black or blue wire, but unlikely that is a neutral.