all the sockets are fine upstair and two in the kitchen. but two in the living room are reading 50v and one in the kitchen which is opposite socket in the living room is 50v the rest are 230 . breaker is fine 32amp just the two in the living and the one opposite in the kitchen.
wiring falt on a ring main
- Thread starter smthdeedog
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Sure it's a ring?
would i have to pull up floor boards to find out!
B
breezer
no
but you should undo every socket and then check from the cu
if it has one cable its either the last on a radial, or a spur
but you should undo every socket and then check from the cu
if it has one cable its either the last on a radial, or a spur
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Have you got a multimeter?
If not, go and buy one (£8 in the high street) then come back and we'll talk you through it.
Better have a torch, small and medium screwdrivers, and a hank of Green&Yellow sheathing (always handy when you open old sockets). If you haven't already got a few metres of 2.5mm T&E, get some as you might need it.
If not, go and buy one (£8 in the high street) then come back and we'll talk you through it.
Better have a torch, small and medium screwdrivers, and a hank of Green&Yellow sheathing (always handy when you open old sockets). If you haven't already got a few metres of 2.5mm T&E, get some as you might need it.
jj4091 said:
Phase & Neutral or Phase & Earth!
Phase and Neutral are both Live!
in the kitchen there is two dubble sockets in the kitchen one by countertop for the kittle one by the kitchen door and one spur onthe wall for a pull swicth for a light onthe wall.The countertop one is reading 50v the second one is fine and the spur on the wall is fine.in the living room there are three, two read 50v and the third is fine.the counter top socket in the kitchen is oppisite the one in the living room which makes me think that them two are linked and from there the last socket reads 50v. upstairs are fine and all sockets up and down are on a 32amp breaker in the kitchen.
yes 50volts we got that mate. but 50 volts between what two conductors (if you have 3 - for ease call them L E & N then take three readings at each place between 2, ie L/E, N./E & L/N) also if you take a reading from each of these three to true earth (say something that`s buried in quite a bit of soil in contwact with the general mass of earth ) it might give us a clue what`s going on. BEWARE your E and true earth might be different voltages so take the same care as you would if either of them were LIVE
between live and nutral
Right 3 dubble sockets in the living room,2 dubble sockets and a junction box feeding the washer and a pull swicth on the wall. were do i begin my test? and how.
Where ever you like, disconnect each item until you come to one that has 240v L to N in but not out. I personally would start at the juntion box, but only because it sounds like a later addition. It is impossible to tell without looking. I would also say you may have other problems from the sound of it & would recommend you get it checked professionally.
You have not said yet if you have a multimeter. I will assume that you have.
It is best to do as much inspection and test with the circuit dead as possible, before you start live testing, which is more likely to lead to injury or death.
Cut the power to all the sockets on the circuit that you have a problem on.
Test that they are now dead.
You say that you have a junction box. Take the lid off and see how many cables go into it; and check that all the cores are firmly connected and undamaged. Also see if all the reds go to one terminal; all the blacks to another; and all the G&Y (or bare
) connected to another. Report back here if not.
If the junction box seems to be correct:
Take off each of the socket faceplates (don't disconnect any wires yet) and identify if each has two cables; three cables; or one cable connected to it.
Make a sketch of your floor layout and draw the socket positions, marking the state of each. The normal number of cables to a socket on a ring is two.
Observe if the cores within each cable are firmly connected and undamaged.
Come back and tell us how many of your sockets have two cables to them, and how many have a different number.
Also if you have detected any damaged or badly connected cores.
We can talk you through continuity testing next.
It is best to do as much inspection and test with the circuit dead as possible, before you start live testing, which is more likely to lead to injury or death.
Cut the power to all the sockets on the circuit that you have a problem on.
Test that they are now dead.
You say that you have a junction box. Take the lid off and see how many cables go into it; and check that all the cores are firmly connected and undamaged. Also see if all the reds go to one terminal; all the blacks to another; and all the G&Y (or bare
) connected to another. Report back here if not.If the junction box seems to be correct:
Take off each of the socket faceplates (don't disconnect any wires yet) and identify if each has two cables; three cables; or one cable connected to it.
Make a sketch of your floor layout and draw the socket positions, marking the state of each. The normal number of cables to a socket on a ring is two.
Observe if the cores within each cable are firmly connected and undamaged.
Come back and tell us how many of your sockets have two cables to them, and how many have a different number.
Also if you have detected any damaged or badly connected cores.
We can talk you through continuity testing next.
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