Wiring in a 1 gang 2 way Wifi switch no neutral

[SUNRAY]

I did as you said and it didn't power on. However I switched the sheathed brown cable (which on the old switch was in the 2 way terminal) with the other 'i way' brown, the switch now works. So the sheathed brown wire must be the wire coming from the light.
To confirm at the master switch:

L = both solid brown wires from old one way terminal
L1 = Sheathed brown, brown wire which was connected to old 2 way terminal
Comm = isolated
3 neutrals = isolated
Black with brown sheath and grey with brown sheath = both isolated

The light turns on and off with no flicker, but switch 2 is dead

My previous clearly shows the sheathed brown in the 2 way position as number 3 and number 3 into the new switch - sadly I used the incorrect image of the wifi switches previosly posted.
This is what I propose next, if yours have no neutral terminal then keep the WAGO

Make the black safe (I'd habitually put it in with the earth at each end but others opinions differ)

 

[pete01]

He has 3 cores to the 2nd switch, he can use the neutral...

 

[HoMoaner34]

I've sent a confirmed 12v feed to the L terminal on switch 2 and it doesn't power up.
I swapped the switches over and it will power up then. So the wiring diagram provided must be wrong. Something has to go into the L1 terminal on the second switch to make it power on

 

[HoMoaner34]

He has 3 cores to the 2nd switch, he can use the neutral...

The second switch has a black sheathed brown, a grey sheathed brown and a solid brown, no neutrals

 

[SUNRAY]

The second switch has a black sheathed brown, a grey sheathed brown and a solid brown, no neutrals

Well look at my sketch then

 

[SUNRAY]

I've sent a confirmed 12v feed to the L terminal on switch 2 and it doesn't power up.
I swapped the switches over and it will power up then. So the wiring diagram provided must be wrong. Something has to go into the L1 terminal on the second switch to make it power on

Won't that be done by wifi?

 

[pete01]

The second switch has a black sheathed brown, a grey sheathed brown and a solid brown, no neutrals

If no-one else does I'll draw it out for you later, bit busy at the moment

 

[SUNRAY]

If no-one else does I'll draw it out for you later, bit busy at the moment

What this one?

My previous clearly shows the sheathed brown in the 2 way position as number 3 and number 3 into the new switch - sadly I used the incorrect image of the wifi switches previosly posted.
This is what I propose next, if yours have no neutral terminal then keep the WAGO

Make the black safe (I'd habitually put it in with the earth at each end but others opinions differ)

 

[pete01]

What this one?

Yes sorry didnt notice, do you not need L1 aswell?

 

[SUNRAY]

Yes sorry didnt notice, do you not need L1 aswell?

Wire 2 one way switches in parallel?
I have my doubts and the drawing doesn't show it... rather defeats the operation of wifi switches too.
But the 3rd wire (black) is there if it is required

 

[HoMoaner34]

OK I have it working as it should. Switch 2 does need power to L1 else it won't power on. So the diagram supplied is wrong.
However now the kitchen lights dont work

Switch 1: Both solid browns to L (1 way and comm from old switch)
Black with brown sheath and brown with brown sheath to L1.

Switch 2: Black with brown sheath to L1. Solid brown (comm) to L

Other brown wire on its own isolated

 

[SUNRAY]

OK I have it working as it should. Switch 2 does need power to L1 else it won't power on. So the diagram supplied is wrong.
However now the kitchen lights dont work

Switch 1: Both solid browns to L (1 way and comm from old switch)
Black with brown sheath and brown with brown sheath to L1.

Switch 2: Black with brown sheath to L1. Solid brown (comm) to L

Other brown wire on its own isolated

Look at my numbers in your photo
Look at my drawing – how many wires in each terminal and which wires are they?

 

[EFLImpudence]

OK I have it working as it should. Switch 2 does need power to L1 else it won't power on. So the diagram supplied is wrong.

The diagram in post #2 shows that.

However now the kitchen lights dont work

Perhaps something to do with:

Other brown wire on its own isolated

 

[HoMoaner34]

The diagram in post #2 shows that.


Perhaps something to do with:

I mean the supplied diagram which came with the product, and the first diagram which was posted in this thread which are both wrong

 

[HoMoaner34]

Look at my numbers in your photo
Look at my drawing – how many wires in each terminal and which wires are they?

2 in each
L: Black with brown sheath to send power to the L terminal on switch 2, plus solid brown to send permanent power to switch 1.
L1: Brown with brown sheath - live coming from light. And a solid brown, again to send power to the L1 port on switch 2 as it won't power up without 12v to L and L1. Despite what the manual says, unless it's defective.

I now have 1 solid brown at switch 1 not connected to anything, and the grey sheathed brown isolated at each switch, not connected to anything.