wiring in new plugs for IT, TV, audio equipment

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Hi. I'm currently decorating one of our rooms. In that room is all my electrical equipment.

I have two wall mains plugs with an 8 gang adaptor in each. Each of those has something plugged in to it. There is also a 4 gang extension in one. So a fast chain type set up.

The equipment is largely on all the time (server, CCTV DVR, cameras, sky, TV distribution, hard drives etc!)

My question is, while the room is being done, should I wire in more wall plugs and plug in to them rather than the 8 adapters?

If so, can I take a spur from an existing socket and run from there?

Or should I have an electrician come and put a new power cable from the fuse box straight to the equipment and have a bank of 10 plug sockets?

I don't want it to be dangerous & am worried about running so much off of two sockets at the moment.

Thanks for any advice.
 
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can the cctv & DVR not go somewhere else?

How many cameras do you have plugged in? As you can get PSU's that will power all of your cameras from one socket
 
Hi. All the cables route to this one point in the house. There's hundreds of metres of network cable so it's not an option to move unfortunately! I have two cameras at the moment, but will be adding more soon. Interesting to know I could power them all on one plug? They use an adaptor to send power down cat6 cable. Thanks!
 
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/TSPSU4slash4.html

I personally would get a spark in to add you a radial circuit in and get him to install at least 6 2 gang sockets. Depending on what fuseboard you have ideally I'd have it on it's own RCBO then you won't loose power to your CCTV should your RCD trip.

The cheaper alternative is to extend the ring, if you can get enough slack on one of the cables in your socket to move it to one side you can add sockets and extend the ring rather than spurring (you may need to lift floorboards to do this)

take a look here

//www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:extend_ring
and
//www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:socket_circuits:a1_ring_final_circuit

You could spur off but unless you add an FCU you can only add one socket
 
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Thank you for the circuit diagrams. On the fuse box there's a flip switch for downstairs sockets, so hopefully I can find some slack to extend.

However, I do like the idea of having this ring on its own. That way a tumble dryer or kettle isn't going to knock it all out as you said.

The fuse box doesn't have any spare "flip switches". Though there is a security light running on one. Surely that can be added to the lighting ring and the electrician can then use that for the new ring?

If I had say 6 double sockets, could I still run an extender 4 gang) from a couple with no major concerns?
 
there doesn't necessarily need to be a spare mcb, are there any spare ways i.e. spaces where an mcb would fit but no mcb?

You could run a 4-gang extension lead but why? They're horrible, if you want more outlets get them installed at the same time
 
I'll check this morning to see if there's any possibility to add another MCB.

I have probably 15-20 items which need power. I'd rather not have 10 double sockets? It'd look a little unsightly! Not too bothered now, but when we sell the house?!

Thank you for all the help
 
You also need to check whether there is existing 30mA RCD protection at the consumer unit/fuse board. As new socket outlets will require this additional protection. You may find a RCCB at the board with a current rating as well as 30mA rating. They are easily noticeable as the have a test button on and when pressed should if functioning correctly, de-energise any circuits that are protected.
It maybe a case that you could install an RCBO (this combines both the RCD and the MCB) rather than an unprotected MCB for new circuit.
But you need to do a little investigation at the board, so you are looking for:
*RCD protection
*Spare ways, you may find blanks or even unused MCBs
*If no spare ways the type of circuit you have, is it a "ring final circuit" or a radial circuit"
*Ways to identify the circuit in general terms:
**A ring final circuit would have two cables terminated at the board on a 32A MCB.
**A radial would have either one 4.0mm on a 32A MCB or 2.5mm on a 20A mCB (or even 16A).
But be aware there a variations that may look like a "ring final circuit" that are actual spurred "radial circuits" that have two conductors at the MCB (which is allowed) and I have come across "ring final circuits" that have been terminated at two different MCBs (which is a no no), so confirmation of your arrangement is best done via the correct testing procedures.
 
If it's behind a TV stand I wouldn't worry too much, I would consider something like this for entertainment sockets

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/KN99UBCW.html

If you're planning on wall mounting your TV, you can always have a couple of sockets at a height that would be hidden behind the tv - reduces the amount of cables that run floor to tv (also worth considering chasing in HDMI/sat cables etc if you're doing it this way)

For your CCTV PVR, IT stuff etc I would consider using something like this:

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products/0489807/?origin=PSF_394583|fp

Then you just use an IEC male to female lead to plug into the block and it just takes up one socket outlet, can also be wall mounted / mounted to the back of a tv stand etc, you can also get rewireable plugs for it so can make really short leads if you want (that's what I've done for my mac / monitor / printer / router & speakers)
 
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Thanks for those! All my devices have the three pin plug though. I don't see how one of those power strips would work for them? (Unless I'm being thick?!)
 
MK make 3 gang socket outlets that can be flush mounted, or you could install skirting trunking and put as many sockets in as space will allow. I would wire the new circuit as a radial fed from its own RCBO and also install whole house surge protection at the same time. It makes sense to install this if you have a lot of valuable electronic kit.
 
A length of 4 by 1 timber ( 100 x 25 mm ) with good quality double 13 amp sockets on surface mounting back boxes mounted next to each other along the timber. Wire them together through the knock outs at the side. Connect one of the end sockets to a 13 plug using flex with suitable strain relief to prevent it being pulled out of the back box and to prevent it moving against the edges of the knock out in the box.
 

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