wiring mess

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Hi all,
I recently had my cylinder moved from one side of the room to the other, but was surprised that the plumber who quoted for the job when leaving said "I've hard wired it so you can use the valve manually for your heating until you get an electrician to complete the job"
Nothing was said about this when I enquired about the work being done.


Anyway, to cut a long story short, he left me with a wiring diagram and I had somebody rewire according to the diagram, but cannot get the central heating to kick in?

There is the cyclinder stat, the automatic valve, the control box next to the boiler, a room stat, and another red/black wire (power?), and a capacitor.
I have a picture that I have drawn below, but am not sure which is the room stat and which is the controller.

If i remove the capacitor and put on the water, the heating will come on with the valve switched to manual, but this is the only way I can get the house to heat up.
I have tried replacing the room stat, no change there.

Can anybody shed any light on why the heating will not fire up? is there a wire in the wrong place?

Sorry if this is confusing but it was the best I could draw. I have removed earth from the drawing to clear it up a bit, obviously they all lead to the same point.


TIA

//media.diynot.com/211000_210082_68106_76956057_thumb.jpg
 
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Are you sure that the blue and grey from the valve both connect to the same terminal?

I think the blue from cylinder stat and blue from valve have been swapped over in your diagram.

Which make model programmer (controller?) do you have.
 
I'll check the blue wires in a minute, thanks for replying. The controller is a seimens RWB2E.
 
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Thanks for the controller info. I forgot to ask which motorized valve you have (make and model).
 
Are you sure that the blue and grey from the valve both connect to the same terminal?

I think the blue from cylinder stat and blue from valve have been swapped over in your diagram.

Which make model programmer (controller?) do you have.

Your eyes are a lot better than mine Dave,I tried to save the pic than zoom in but still nee good!
 
Your eyes are a lot better than mine Dave,I tried to save the pic than zoom in but still nee good!
The OP had just posted the thumbnail version. I went to his profile opened his album and then the photo. It came up nice and large so I right clicked and saved it to desktop, then used MS Office Picture Manager to rotate and enlarge.

(click to enlarge)
 
"I've hard wired it so you can use the valve manually for your heating until you get an electrician to complete the job"

Reply: "I have your payment, and it's yours as soon as the job is complete"

Surely you asked for a complete job to be done - then the wiring or the sourcing of an electrician to finish the job is down to the man you hired??!
 
Yes it's all working now. Thanks all for the replies.
ajsdoc - I wasn't here at the time, the missus dealt with it, it was a problem that we didn't think we would have so didn't discuss what would happen if we were unhappy with the work.
We learned from it and know in future to sort payment by cheque or a failsafe way to make sure we have control.

Thanks for your comment though.
 
I suppose you will never get a heart attack when being so laid back!

But I see that you had a cowboy who was taking advantage of you on account of his inability to do simple wiring!

Whilst there are certainly a proportion of plumbers unable to do wiring they normally have a friendly electrician who helps them out and they subcontract the wiring to them.

But your fellow was in my view fraudulent and should in my view be asked to repay the costs of the electrician.

Of course we don't know the figures involved and it could be that the price that he charged was appropriate to only cover the work that he did.

If anyone asked me by phone what that job typically costs then I would say about £250 for most of a day's work plus about £40-£80 for the materials used.

Tony
 
I had a quote for £360 and a quote for £300, electrician was a friend of a friend so didn't charge. The £300 was a false economy if I'd have paid extra for the electrician. Like I said, we learn from our mistakes and will not make this one again. The main thing is that the heating is now working as it should given the cold spell that's due. Now to try to get the radiator in the hall working. :rolleyes:
 
Not sure what you mean by balanced.
Today I will close all other radiators off and attempt to get the one in question working, I have bled the radiator and nothing changed, very little air came out. This was the radiator that was used to empty the system if that makes any difference?
 
Not sure what you mean by balanced.
It means adjusting the Lockshield valves (the one under a plain cover) on each rad so the flow of water through each rad is correct. If you do not do this, the radiators nearer the pump may take more of the water than they need. So the rads further away do not get their fair share and consequently are colder.

The reason for this is that the pipes connected to the rad (normally 15mm) can carry a much greater flow than is required by the radiator.
The rad itself offers very little resistance to the flow, so the flow has to be restriced by closing the LS valve.

An approximate balance can be obtained by setting all lockshield valves to one-third of a turn open from closed. Then check each rad to see how warm they are. Any which are colder than the average should have the LS valve open a tiny amount and those which are too hot closed very slightly. We are talking of adjustments of one-sixth of a turn or less.
 

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