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Wiring smart LED strip to 12v driver

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Devon
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United Kingdom
Hello all, looking for some help!

I currently have 2 x 30W LED drivers wired to a light switch in my kitchen (one on each side of the room) which power some very basic white LED strips. I would like to switch them out with a smart 'Govee' or 'Philips' type system but they all tend to come with a hard wired power supply.

My question is, what would be the best way of doing this? I'm guessing the options would be to wire a socket to the existing supply and get rid of the LED driver and just plug them in (assuming they are within ampage limits - but i'm guessing this isn't the best option / best practice). Alternatively I assume I can use the existing wire from the transformer and just cut the power supply plug away from the LED strip and connect it up that way?

As the LED drivers are only 30W, this may be too much of a load as some of these kits state they use 18w for 5 meters and I would need to run 2 x strips off each LED driver.

Any help appreciated.
 
Not quite worked out what your aims are?
If a lamp needs a power supply, be it called a transformer, driver, or any other name, then that power supply must remain.

Many smart switches, need either a neutral, or a minium load, so any control after the switch can stop the smart switch working, there is an exception the TP-Link also called Tapo smart switch uses a battery so under-load is not a problem.

If I look at my own house, there is a real mixture, 4 of my strip lights the smart feature is built into the lights from the word go. I have smart bulbs, switches, and relays, a mixture of systems, but I use Nest Mini's for my voice control, which means they all import to google home, so one app works all, the same with Alexa, which my son uses, all the different makes combine, so one control works all.

Philips back in the 80's was very good, they had some great products, I used V2000 video players, but they seem to have lost their way, 2010 I got a batch of Philips golf CFL bulbs, which were to put it simple a load of rubbish, and it seems now it is a logo sold to Chinese suppliers, and not better or worse than the rest, although more expensive.

As to the strip lights, I had a pair of 3 meter strips from Lidi which were rather robust, and worked well, but the billy bookcases centre floor to ceiling with glass doors it worked well, but either side the two units needed 5 meters to light, so went for TCP from Screwfix, nowhere near as robust, but behind the 4 doors they don't need to be so robust anyway. 20230227_170703_1.jpgThe units are both for decoration and for light, that side of room is away from ceiling light. The ceiling light uses a Tapo smart switch, so entering or leaving room hey google turn on/off living room lights works well. We also have some uplighters, again can all work with same command.

We did not decide to get smart lighting, it was a result of no radio signal for radio 1, 2, 3, 4 etc, and also wanting to control central heating better, and the units brought from last house used to control the extruder alarm that told us when my late mother had gone walk about. But now we have it, wife loosing use of her fingers, she has two command lines "hey google" and if that does not work "Eric".
 
You are effectively extending your supply to the new socket so need a neutral
 

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