Wiring up and into the loft

[AlwaysPondering]

I wonder if I could just pick your brains

At the moment I don't have any power in the loft (expect the upstairs light circuit). Anyway I'd like to put a power socket up there to power an amplifier for the TV aerial.

I'm planning on taking a spur off a double plug socket in the bedroom, 2.5mm T&E, threading it between the wall and the plasterboard up into the loft space. Then add a fuse, before off to the plug socket in the loft. I know I prob don't need the fuse, but just in case anyone at a later date adds more off the socket in the loft I know it's covered by said fuse.

Anyone see any issues with this?

Also if you were wanting to put a light in the loft, would you take if from after the fuse on this circuit, or tap into the upstairs lighting circuit? Obviously checking total loadings etc etc first?

Cheers all

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I'm planning on taking a spur off a double plug socket in the bedroom, 2.5mm T&E, threading it between the wall and the plasterboard up into the loft space.

Take note of the rules for concealed cables, particularly the one about RCD protection if that socket circuit doesn't already have that.

//www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:walls

Then add a fuse, before off to the plug socket in the loft. I know I prob don't need the fuse, but just in case anyone at a later date adds more off the socket in the loft I know it's covered by said fuse.

Put it in the bedroom - easier to access if needed, and better protection for the spur cable.

Also if you were wanting to put a light in the loft, would you take if from after the fuse on this circuit, or tap into the upstairs lighting circuit? Obviously checking total loadings etc etc first?

I always think it's better for it to be on a different circuit in case you want to see to work on the cables for the upstairs lighting......

 

[viewer]

If you only want an aerial booster/amplifier then the lighting circuit is likely to provide enough power - most are under 10W.
So, given easy access to the lighting circuit in the roofspace, you could fix a light and amplifier without any work outside the loft

 

[AlwaysPondering]

I'm planning on taking a spur off a double plug socket in the bedroom, 2.5mm T&E, threading it between the wall and the plasterboard up into the loft space.

Take note of the rules for concealed cables, particularly the one about RCD protection if that socket circuit doesn't already have that.

//www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:walls

All the sockets in the house are on a RCD. In an ideal world I'd channel out the plasterboard, attach the wire to the wall, cover it with a metal cover, then re-plaster etc. However having spoken to friends, no-one has had an electrician do this when adding a new socket.

Also if you were wanting to put a light in the loft, would you take if from after the fuse on this circuit, or tap into the upstairs lighting circuit? Obviously checking total loadings etc etc first?

I always think it's better for it to be on a different circuit in case you want to see to work on the cables for the upstairs lighting......

If you only want an aerial booster/amplifier then the lighting circuit is likely to provide enough power - most are under 10W.
So, given easy access to the lighting circuit in the roofspace, you could fix a light and amplifier without any work outside the loft

I did wonder about that, however I'm rather anal about these things. i.e. if it's got a socket on it, then I feel it should have no power going to it when I kill the power to the ring main on the Customer Unit.

 

[rjm2k]

I'm not qualified to say any of this, use at your own peril

In an ideal world I'd channel out the plasterboard, attach the wire to the wall, cover it with a metal cover, then re-plaster etc.

As long as you follow the rules for safe zones there is no need, buy yourself a cheap cable pulling kit for around a tenner, run the cable directly up from the socket to the loft (or across to a new adjacent FCU and then up) and away you go. You may have to break into the board at some points if the puller jams because of dot and dab adhesive or noggins depending on the wall construction but a bit of filler will cover those up afterwards. If you tap the wall you should get an idea of where it's not hollow.

I did wonder about that, however I'm rather anal about these things. i.e. if it's got a socket on it, then I feel it should have no power going to it when I kill the power to the ring main on the Customer Unit.

NEVER EVER assume that a socket is dead because you isolated the circuit that you ASSUMED it was on! I'm sure plenty of people have used a spur off a lighting circuit for this, so long as it's protected by an FCU and marked as such it shouldn't be a problem.

 

[AlwaysPondering]

NEVER EVER assume that a socket is dead because you isolated the circuit that you ASSUMED it was on! I'm sure plenty of people have used a spur off a lighting circuit for this, so long as it's protected by an FCU and marked as such it shouldn't be a problem.

Don't worry I never ever assume it will be dead, I always check, then check again. And if there is someone else in the house I'll get them to check.

I like to keep things together, as there is then less chance for confusion.

 

[viewer]

Reading between the lines, you want to be able to isolate the aerial and know that it is safe to "play with"; is that right? A sensible idea.
If so, you can use a 5amp lighting socket and plug and unplug the aerial without turning off any of the circuits. In fact if you use two 5A sockets, using one for the aerial and one for a switched lamp you can have any combination of on/off/isolated.

 

[dmiller]

For the TV distribution I would be tempted to use one of these to be honest - http://www.screwfix.com/p/labgear-msa263lp-s-remote-power-distribution-amp-6-way/30624.

The idea is you plug the small box in behind the TV, it converts mains to 12v (or similar) and transmits it up your current co-ax to the loft where it plugs into the big box (the amp). The amp plugs into your aerial and has out puts for each room. The small box also has a aerial output on it for the tv its behind.

No extra wiring to faff around with and no need for extra sockets etc.

As for the lighting I would split it off the lighting circuit as its easier and less hassle. Make sure you get a live and not a switched live, lighting circuits can be confusing if no-ones sleeved the cables etc.

David.

 

[AlwaysPondering]

Now that's looking like it would make life much easier for getting a good TV piccy, and no messing around with power sockets in the loft

Then just use the lighting circuit upstairs (which already has wires in the loft for it) to give me a light in the loft itself.

Thanks once again.

 

[Taylortwocities]

For the TV distribution I would be tempted to use one of these to be honest - http://www.screwfix.com/p/labgear-msa263lp-s-remote-power-distribution-amp-6-way/30624.

The idea is you plug the small box in behind the TV, it converts mains to 12v (or similar) and transmits it up your current co-ax to the loft where it plugs into the big box (the amp). The amp plugs into your aerial and has out puts for each room. The small box also has a aerial output on it for the tv its behind.

No extra wiring to faff around with and no need for extra sockets etc.

As for the lighting I would split it off the lighting circuit as its easier and less hassle. Make sure you get a live and not a switched live, lighting circuits can be confusing if no-ones sleeved the cables etc.

David.

One issue with these (and magic eye systems) is to be sure NOT to use isolated TV sockets.
Isolated TV sockets have a small capacitor that prevents the passage of the DC feed. This is a right PITA when using masthead amps and the Labgear item linked to above.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I did wonder about that, however I'm rather anal about these things. i.e. if it's got a socket on it, then I feel it should have no power going to it when I kill the power to the ring main on the Customer Unit.

That's not anal.

Just bonkers, ignorant, and indicative of someone who should not be doing electrical work if they cannot get their head around the concept of more than one circuit with sockets on it.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I like to keep things together, as there is then less chance for confusion.

Please stop doing electrical work - you don't have the mental capacity for it.

 

[bernardgreen]

Then just use the lighting circuit upstairs (which already has wires in the loft for it) to give me a light in the loft itself.

The problem with that is you will not be able to use the light for working on the upstairs lighting circuit. Also if you are in the loft and that circuit trips at night you will have no light above or below the hatch which could make it difficult to find the safe way out pf the loft.