I have a loft TV aerial and planning to connect four TVs to it. I have been recommended to install a TV amplifier near the aerial with inlet of aerial connected to an amplifier and four outlets to the TV in different rooms. Amplifier needs a power supply. I recently had house extended and have two electric cables running from the fuse box to the new extension. One is supplying power to lights and one to the new 4 off sockets (down and up stairs). Can I install a junction box in the loft in the wire that powers the new sockets and install a 2-gang socket? What size junction box I should use and fuse rating I should use? A circuit diagram would be beneficial.
Installing power in loft
- Thread starter Monty55
- Start date
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The cable that supplies the sockets, is there enough slack in it to allow you to cut it and terminate both ends directly into your proposed new socket?
This is better than using a joint box if you can.
This is better than using a joint box if you can.
Labgear make an amplifier which is fed with its 12 volt power up one of the coax cable from a box behind one of the TVs. No power required in the loft.
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u can cut either cable either lighting or sockets, if u cut the sockets use a 30A joint box (assuming its wired in 2.5 twin,) use a 20a joint box if your cutting 1.5twin for lighting. id personally cutt into lights. personal preferance
No you can't 'just' cut in to a light circuit and fit a socket
(in future times someone could unplug the wall wart / plug for low load amp and start using a high load tool / device / heater / appliance- what do you think would happen then ?).
if you use the light circuit you will need to protect the circuit by restricting the socket to 1 amp via a fused spur and 1 amp fuse.
So if you do take a light LNE feed run that as a spur to a fused spur, then on the load side run a cable to the socket. Thus the socket max load will be restricted to the fuse in the fused spur
i don't think thats strictly true, but requires a bit more consideration than micheal suggests, so i don't know if its a good idea to expand on this here
(in future times someone could unplug the wall wart / plug for low load amp and start using a high load tool / device / heater / appliance- what do you think would happen then ?).
if you use the light circuit you will need to protect the circuit by restricting the socket to 1 amp via a fused spur and 1 amp fuse.
So if you do take a light LNE feed run that as a spur to a fused spur, then on the load side run a cable to the socket. Thus the socket max load will be restricted to the fuse in the fused spur
I'm lost, what is your point ?
quote from 2 x posts and not really offering up your thoughts- did you have your Xmas drink last night
oh yea, i had a drink last night and have since slept very well, thank you, but thats not relevant right now.
The quote is from 1 post not 2 - yours, 24/12 8.59am, (just incase you miss that a second time) Its seems as though you may have drank more than me last night?
You said you can't cut into a light circuit and add a socket. I say that is incorrect
You said you can't cut into a light circuit and add a socket. I say that is incorrect
Not even a 5A round pin one?
Martin
explain... what size cable and MCB?
Whenever we wired a new build house (before the boom in sky tv) we always used to wire a 2A socket for the tv amp off of the lighting circuit ,even if not required at the time of installation it was always there in case.
Nick
Nick
explain... what size cable and MCB?
?
who explain what?
explain... what size cable and MCB?
How can I explain what I can't see ?
Suggested from OP:- 4 x socket off 1 x cable, new extension.
So it might be a circuit on it's own (lets hope it's not a 4 socket spur of a ring), in which case 20 amp MCB / rcbo and 2.5mm feed. Or it might be a 4mm radial 30 amp MCB / rcbo.
No one knows, the op doesn't seem to know- but my answer like the many others is a possible, all be it a guess due to lack of info / site view.
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