Wood Flooring - evo-stik ok? do i need a strap?

[johndouglas2008]

Hello

I'm hoping to start installing my real wood floor tomorrow. It will be installed as a floating floor over concrete, DPM, and floormastar green insualation underlay.

So, I decided to steer clear of the floormaster glue in a cheap looking bottle (i'll be glueing the T&G). Instead I went to the wood adhesive section in B&Q to find PVAC. All I could see what Evo-Stick interior wood adhesive. Is that ok to use?

Also, do i need one of those strap things for laying the floor? Are they really necessary? I heard for a good quality floor they're not needed. Floor cost about £40/sq meter which is really expensive for me - but no doubt there are £150/sq meter floors out there!

Thanks for any help

Cheers

JD

 

[WoodYouLike]

Any reasonable PAVC wood-glue will do the trick, main thing is to glue the T&G's properly.
You're right about the straps, if you've got proper quality wood with decent T&G it normally isn't needed. Do take care when walking over freshly installed boards, the glue needs its time to bond. If you don't notice you've created a gap between the boards the glue will set and the boards won't go tighter together again.

When you've finished with your floor, why not enter our DIY-Triumphs contest?

 

[johndouglas2008]

thanks

sorry to be dense but is evo-stik a PAVC wood glue?

do you think B&Q flooring is decent enough not ot have to use a strap?

hopefully it'll be good enough to be in your triumph section!

 

[WoodYouLike]

Evo-stick wood interior is fine.

Check a few boards 'dry' to see if the T&G's fit snugly together (not too tight so you'll have to knock it too hard and not too 'open' - boards will slide out the minute you touch them).

Sure you'll do a fine job, take your time, take the correct preparations and don't worry too much

 

[johndouglas2008]

Excellent, i can go to the pub now instead of B&Q.

Thanks woodyoulike - i'll try and enjoy the experience!

fingers crossed.

 

[johndouglas2008]

well, progress is being made, although no where near as fast as i thought it'd be! got about 5 rows done now. looks fantastic though.

question - what's a good product to fill the grooves with? there are some little gaps at the top of the boards. just wondering if there's good stuff to fill them as with a little baby on the way i'm sure it's probably best to protect the floor as much as possible form spills leaking between the boards.

 

[WoodYouLike]

tiny gaps at the tops of the boards normally indicated either your row wasn't really straight or the boards (or T&G) weren't exactly cut at angle.
You can fill them with a mastic if needed.

 

[johndouglas2008]

thanks. i guess the boards are pretty cheap really. the gaps really are small but there's certainly no way they'd sit flush against the next board.

one last thing - edging - is there any decent 2cm wide edging? i've left a 15mm expansion gap, but B&Q only sell 15mm wide edging.

thanks

john

 

[WoodYouLike]

We ourselves use 20mm flat beading to cover the expansion gap, sits flat on the floor (neat finish, like a picture frame)

 

[johndouglas2008]

We ourselves use 20mm flat beading to cover the expansion gap, sits flat on the floor (neat finish, like a picture frame)

ohh, that looks nice. but nailing it to the floor? won't that prevent expansion?

 

[WoodYouLike]

No, it won't. Only if you, like one of our clients, use thick nails to pin the beading down.
with normal small pins 'extreme' expansion will lift the beading up - also an 'early warning system'.
But it hardly happens in normal circumstances.

 

[johndouglas2008]

excellent, that looks alot easier than fitting edging to a skirting board.

thanks for all your help with this. there's an outside chance i may actually finish the floor this weekend!

 

[WoodYouLike]

I am expecting you to enter the DIY-Triumphs contest Monday morning then

 

[johndouglas2008]

This is turning into a really long project due to a bad back and busy weekends!

But, just about to finish it off.

One question - wood around the toilets. Do you maintain the expansion gap? how to you cover over the gap?

thanks

john

 

[WoodYouLike]

Hi John

Yes, also around toilets you'll have to have an expansion gap. ideally you would lift the pan and install just underneath it, sitting the pan back on to it - but if that's not possible, leave expansion gap and 'seal' it with transparent silicon or mastic