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Wood pellet boiler and thermal store - Drain down, valve change and installing isolation valves

Discussion in 'Plumbing and Central Heating' started by thelaughingbadger, 10 Oct 2015.

  1. thelaughingbadger


    28 Sep 2015
    Thanks Received:
    United Kingdom

    Looking for a bit of help/confirmation of my thinking (as a novice). I've got a wood pellet boiler and thermal store in the garage, that feeds the central heating and hot water. Hot water storage tank and header tank in loft. A three-way mixing valve needs to be replaced so I need to drain down the whole system and previous advice has also suggested fixing isolating valves to make it easier in the future. I think I am fine about how to cut in and fix in the valves but have a couple of questions things to check. I've mapped out the system in the garage (pic below).


    Flow - would I be right in thinking that A and B will both be expansion pipes, C as hot water out to house and D as cold in to system from header?

    Location of isolating valves - any thoughts on locations?

    Type of isolating valves to use - these are all 28mm pipes, copper in majority of the system shown but plastic to right of pump on C and on D. I was looking at full-bore 28mm compression ball valves for the copper areas (is that right and any ideas on where/what is best to get?), but can anyone recommend a product for the plastic sections if needed.

    Drain-down - there's a drain valve on the bottom of the thermal store. I'm fine with how to do this but just wanted to check that all I need to do is tie off the ballcock at the header tank?

    There's a bit more background on http://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/r...ood-pellet-boiler-system.442989/#post-3473620

    Anyway, hope this is clear, any help much appreciated.


    Last edited: 10 Oct 2015
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