Worcester 24i junior boiler help please

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Hi all,
First post and hoping for some much needed help and advice please...

My combi boiler was moved when building an extension and was working fine before. My plumber refitted the boiler but it wouldn't fire up and suggested it was the fan or pcb. However, after he left I reset the boiler a few times and got it running..must have been a bit of dust or something that needed clearing. Everything was running fine until water started pouring out of it!! I tried to re-pressurise but there's water coming out of a plastic part to the left of the pump which attaches to a stainless steel hose by a clip. Water is coming out where the hose enters the plastic part.

Can anyone suggest what part this is please as I will buy it ready for when my plumber is next free. Is it the flow unit? I've attached a pic of the offending part!

Thank in advance :)
 

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Any ideas?

I'm now thinking it's the expansion vessel connection and is leaking where the flexi hose enters the plastic connection?

Any help would be gratefully received!

Thanks
 
It has to be said a plumber (especially a builders's plumber) who does not hold a valid Gas Safe card, cannot work on a gas appliance. Then to go on to suggest fan/ PCB defect without valid reason smacks of lack of good working knowledge.

Can I suggest you talk to the builder and employ a Gas Safe bod who knows what is inside the white case and can fix the boiler. Furthermore, you need the boiler checked as relocation may not be safe/ installation as per the manufacturer's requirements.

It is not the first time I have encountered builder's 'plumbers' who are OK with plumbing sinks and bathrooms with plastic pipe, try their hand with boilers and end up with result similar to yours

Good luck. Hope you get it sorted
 
Thanks for your reply and concern, DP.

I made sure the plumber was Gas Safe registered before he stepped inside my house, let alone touch my boiler. He also came recommended by a few people I know who had work undertaken on their boilers. He is not connected to my builder at all.

Apologies if I mistakenly inferred that he was not competent by 'guessing' the diagnosis. He was already late for an appointment (that I was aware of) and merely suggested that it 'may' be the fan or pcb as the fan was performing intermittently but he'd have to test fully when he returned. He suggested resetting a few times in the mean time which is what I did before it surprisingly started up. I'm not living at the property so in no mad rush.

Since locating the part that is leaking, all I am asking is what the name of the part is as the Worcester manual doesn't make it clear.

I believe it is the expansion vessel connector but would just like someone to confirm please from the image?

I am not planning on undertaking any of the work myself but merely want to purchase the part prior to when the Gas Safe plumber returns. He has to travel a fair distance and I'm trying to be efficient.

Any help would be greatly received.

Thank you
 
Could be just a matter of pulling the clip, inspecting the o ring, either replace it or put a bit of silicone lube or lsx on it and try again.
 
Thanks for response nortonj, much appreciated.

Can I please check that you mean the o ring on the end of the bent flexi hose that enters the plastic component (as seen in my image)? If so, I've had a look and it is intact however water seems to flow under the hose insert. I tested it again today by unclipping, pushing hose in fully whilst continuing to hold it, then re-pressuring which seemed to work until I let go of the hose and water flowed out between the hose and bottom of plastic component.

Also tried some ptfe tape but no joy. I will try lsx as I used that recently for my new rads.

Excuse my ignorance but should there be an o ring or washer inside the plastic part as well as at the end of the hose? Had a look but couldn't feel anything.

Thanks again for your help - any further advice welcome :)
 
Thanks nortonj, it was indeed a perished o ring.

However, once re-pressurised to just over 1 bar, the boiler fires up ok and rads are all working ok but it only works off the timer dial, I.e. I cannot override using the on/off slider button at all. To stop the boiler, I have to change the timer clock to when it's off. Seems very strange.

Also had some water come out of the overflow but then stops.

Anybody have any ideas please?

Thanks
 
Thanks nortonj, it was indeed a perished o ring.

However, once re-pressurised to just over 1 bar, the boiler fires up ok and rads are all working ok but it only works off the timer dial, I.e. I cannot override using the on/off slider button at all. To stop the boiler, I have to change the timer clock to when it's off. Seems very strange.

Also had some water come out of the overflow but then stops.

Anybody have any ideas please?

Thanks

Not quite sure what you mean slider button, i dont do much work on these particular boilers. Do you mean the slider button on your remote stat?
 
Sorry I mean the on/off/timer switch on the clock on the actual boiler itself. The room stat hasn't been fitted yet so just working off the boiler for now.

Tried again tonight, switch next to clock doesn't do anything but when timer is set manually (by pushing the small buttons on the clock in) then the boiler fires up and rads get warm.

Seems the on/off/timer switch isn't working but timer on clock does?

Any ideas?
 

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The MT10 timer in the worcesters are notorious for doin as you described. Wheyou say water comes out of the overflow do you mean the copper pipe or the plastic one?
 
I would get the Plumber back, you have had 3 problems now since the boiler was moved. Im not saying the plumber has done anything wrong, but moving the boiler may have disturbed water and electrical connections so you wouldnt be in the wrong to get him back and check it over.
 
Thanks for your response, baz.

So is it just a matter of replacing the MT10 timer then? Is this a straightforward job?

Water came out of the plastic overflow, but tested again last night and no water was discharged.

Cheers
 
Will do Rampage77, thanks.

I'm waiting for him to return (not living at property) so just trying a couple of things in the meantime. I was wondering whether it may be the pcb.

The boiler seems to work fine when fired up, it's just the controls that seem problematic at the moment.

Cheers
 
Water is supposed to come out of the plastic overflow, and more is better. No water means that your boiler isn't burning efficiently - it's a condense drain
 
Cheers muggles,

Any idea with the switch? Does it sound like this just needs replacing as a common fault?
 

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