Working on a Lath & Plaster ceiling
- Thread starter RichD1
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Will be a messy job, so dust sheets and PPE recommended.
Best bet would be to find a joist to cut along, once that is found, a hand saw is as good as any tool to cut across the lathes.
The perpendicular cut, will at first be through plaster rather than lathe.
There will be damage and possible repairs required, but that is the nature of the beast.
You must be careful though, not cut through any unseen cables/pipes.
Best bet would be to find a joist to cut along, once that is found, a hand saw is as good as any tool to cut across the lathes.
The perpendicular cut, will at first be through plaster rather than lathe.
There will be damage and possible repairs required, but that is the nature of the beast.
You must be careful though, not cut through any unseen cables/pipes.
Unfortunately the joists are just in the wrong place.
The loft hole straddles two joists, so hoping these can be cut and eased out after bracing across from above until the stringers can be fitted both ends.
I was also thinking about cutting a hole template out of a sheet of chipboard and then screwing this up on the ceiling through the adjacent joists. This will provide support to the laths and hopefully prevent any damage whilst cutting through.
Richard
The loft hole straddles two joists, so hoping these can be cut and eased out after bracing across from above until the stringers can be fitted both ends.
I was also thinking about cutting a hole template out of a sheet of chipboard and then screwing this up on the ceiling through the adjacent joists. This will provide support to the laths and hopefully prevent any damage whilst cutting through.
Richard
You will need something to stabilise/support the lathe that is going to be external of the hatch, or you will find that whilst cutting the opening, as this will cause damage and cracks beyond that open.
If you have a hole saw, it maybe worth pepper-potting the area inside the opening dimensions, so that can be cut-out without too much damage and you can then put your hatch frame work in then cut the remainder using that as a guide.
If you have a hole saw, it maybe worth pepper-potting the area inside the opening dimensions, so that can be cut-out without too much damage and you can then put your hatch frame work in then cut the remainder using that as a guide.
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I have done two, gently mark out for the trap (use a soft pencil). By using a stud locator, find out where the joists are, or failing that tapping the ceiling should give you a clue. Now centrally within you initial markings, make a large hole with a hand saw. Now you can probe about and find out the exact positions of the joists, its worth amending your hole size and shape so it is up against the inside edges of two joists. make the hole larger, but leave it 3" short of the unsupported section between the joists Now get a batten and clamp it to the top of the not-to-be-cut joists and across the unsupported bits and cut the excess off . It would be a good idea to support the soon-to-be-loose joists. If they are short then a bit of 4" X 2", which overlaps two uncut joists could be screwed in from the top using some decent size screws, or as I do, go back 4" and through bolt a bit of 8" X 4" with 3' overlap each end. I just drilled the holes through the ceiling and joist and gently raked out the plaster so the bolthead can press directly on the laths, the bolts then go through the trimmer. In retrospect, it was OTT, but it did not move or ceiling crack for at least 31 years.
Now you can cut the unwanted joists out. This is a right pain that is sawing off the joist(s) that are running across your hole, it would be good if the cut is vertical, if its problematic, taper the top away from the hole.
Now frame out the hole, use 6" X 1" PAR, tack it on with panel pins to start off with, its lower edge needs to be as tight as possible to the plaster and the box not twisted. N.B. you will need blocks screwed to the inside of the last continous joists to carry the ends of the cross pieces. Pack out to make sure that the box has vertical sides. Fix it on well as you will be resting ladders on it. Now trim the underside with a architrave picture frame, this will hold the loose plaster in place. Line the inside again with some stop beading and make a loft hatch, 18mm chipboard will work, glue 4" of foam to its top. For a "panelled" look, glue and pin on some flat wood on to the hatch.
Job done except for painting.
Frank
Now you can cut the unwanted joists out. This is a right pain that is sawing off the joist(s) that are running across your hole, it would be good if the cut is vertical, if its problematic, taper the top away from the hole.
Now frame out the hole, use 6" X 1" PAR, tack it on with panel pins to start off with, its lower edge needs to be as tight as possible to the plaster and the box not twisted. N.B. you will need blocks screwed to the inside of the last continous joists to carry the ends of the cross pieces. Pack out to make sure that the box has vertical sides. Fix it on well as you will be resting ladders on it. Now trim the underside with a architrave picture frame, this will hold the loose plaster in place. Line the inside again with some stop beading and make a loft hatch, 18mm chipboard will work, glue 4" of foam to its top. For a "panelled" look, glue and pin on some flat wood on to the hatch.
Job done except for painting.
Frank
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I would not use a cutting disc, the whole house will be covered in dust and I am not sure that the discs will cut wood, they will burn though.
Frank
Frank
Hi Guys, now got the joists cut and new joist framing in and the Youngman loft ladder frame attached ready for making good.
But to get the joist frames into place I had to chip off the top of the surrounding plaster which is squeezed between the laths. I'm now conscious that this plaster is not securely attached to the laths!
What can I use to spread over this area which will adhere to the existing plaster and also to the exposed laths.
Richard
But to get the joist frames into place I had to chip off the top of the surrounding plaster which is squeezed between the laths. I'm now conscious that this plaster is not securely attached to the laths!
What can I use to spread over this area which will adhere to the existing plaster and also to the exposed laths.
Richard
Well how did you finally cut the plaster & laths that was the original question?
If you had cut and trimmed your joists correctly to Youngman's rough opening dimensions there would be no need to squeeze anything?
The trim moulding around the ladder box will usually cover 50mm to 75mm.
A photo would explain what you are asking?
If you had cut and trimmed your joists correctly to Youngman's rough opening dimensions there would be no need to squeeze anything?
The trim moulding around the ladder box will usually cover 50mm to 75mm.
A photo would explain what you are asking?
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