Worktop edges with a router, what guide required?

[TheFunk]

Hi,

I need to shorten several 38mm square edge laminate worktops and apply edging strips. I understand a router is the best way to get the cleanest edge finish without chipping (cutting the worktop first and then using a router to remove the final few mm's).

The only problem is I've never used a router before... what sort of guide would I need to achieve a straight edge and could this be done by a router novice?

Obviously I'd aim to have a few test runs first. Presumably I can't clamp a spirit level in place at 90 degrees and use that...?

Thanks.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

The only problem is I've never used a router before... what sort of guide would I need to achieve a straight edge and could this be done by a router novice?

Obviously I'd aim to have a few test runs first. Presumably I can't clamp a spirit level in place at 90 degrees and use that...?

Actually yes, you can clamp a 4ft level in place and use that, done that quite a few times over the years (just don't over cramp the level in case you bend it). I'd recommend that you use a good quality, large combi square to check that your angle is correct (e.g. a Bahco CS400 or the like). For a worktop I would recommend a 1/2in router with at least 1400 watts power (ideally at least 1800 watts) and a decent size 1/2in shank TCT cutter (19mm diameter is better than 16mm which is better than 12mm, don't use a sub-12mm diameter cutter - I find that larger diameter cutters cut more smoothly). Remember that the router must always be used the same way, i.e. workpiece to the left, router and cutter to the right, push the router forwards away from you (do not pull towards you as that is a "climb cut" and can quickly run out of control). This means that for left hand ends you'll need to work the edge from the underside or you will get chipping of the laminate on the front edge. For best results try to limit the cut to no more than about 2mm. Wear a dust mask as this is a dusty operation