Would you expect plumber to use push-fit for rad install?

[drpepe]

I didn't specify how the job should be done, but upon lifting the boards this is what I found:

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What do you think? It looks untidy, but I suppose I wouldn't have cared if I hadnt looked under the floor. Is there any substantial difference in the quality of push-ft vs. soldered joints?

 

[gasmanstu72]

push fit fittings are fine,
it should be lagged though

 

[spareshunter]

Fine. To solder he will have to get all the water out extremely difficult on a ground floor. I would use push fit or compression and yes lag the pipe as you don't want to heat the worms.

Remove the clip/wood and suspend from and across joists at both ends with metal strapping to support the fittings. Cant see what fitting it is but some can come off if the fitting presses against a clip or joist. Just in case while the board is up.

 

[drpepe]

Thanks for the replies guys. The plumber comes recommended by family, so I'm glad he was doing things properly.

The floors will be up for quite some time due to ongoing work, so yes I will be sure to lag and replace the piece of wood!

 

[Agile]

I have to say that I always prefer soldered joints and particularly above the ground floor.

But it does take longer to fit and most clients prefer a lower quote!

Tony

 

[TeaTime]

I guess my only gripe would have been about him not informing me that the pipe was inadequantely supported, but thats just me.

 

[Deleted member 63160]

I hope you gave his horse some water while he was there.

 

[St0rmer66]

Personally I prefer compression because plastic fittings can let air in and cause corrosion.

 

[sooey]

It's the iso valve that would be bothering me, if he intends leaving that on and just connecting up from that without draining don't let him.
That's a leak waiting to happen.

 

[Tibbot]

Sooey is correct about the isolator. They're meant for H&C water services and are not fit for primary CH circuits.

As for the push fits, they work, probably give no trouble but the job looks DIY. You could've done it yourself.

 

[Agile]

I don't have any gripe with an iso valve if used to feed a rad, apart from looking very odd.

But if used for a towel rail the look neat and do the job. I don't find that many leak.

But they do have a fairly small bore and in some applications can cause a reduction I the flow.

Tony

 

[sooey]

I don't have any gripe with an iso valve if used to feed a rad, apart from looking very odd.
Tony

You should have, as said it's amateurish, apart from anything else he obviously doesn't own a pipe bender.

 

[Biggles..]

I don't have any gripe with an iso valve if used to feed a rad, apart from looking very odd.

But if used for a towel rail the look neat and do the job. I don't find that many leak.

But they do have a fairly small bore and in some applications can cause a reduction I the flow.

Tony

As said a thousand times, stick to repairing boilers, just because as an amateur plumber you don't have a gripe doesn't mean it's right!

I would hope the iso will be removed later when the rads fitted.
If your leaving a valve on and you don't want the look of a lever valve, then its a genuine Ballofix valve and remove the T handle.

 

[Jackrae]

And when the iso valve is removed that's another joint to be installed because the tail is too short.

 

[build44]

Personally I prefer compression because plastic fittings can let air in and cause corrosion.

Very early plastic pipes had this issue. I think it was a bigger issue in North America.

I would only use compression fittings where I could see them or were easily accessible.