Yale 6000 series wire-less alarm question

[Vicario]

I have door sensors linked to this system and they work very well. Both front and back doors are being replaced soon and I want to know how to proceed. Clearly the sensors need to be disarmed - can I simply zap the tamper alert, remove the sensors and batteries from the door and then re-arm so that the rest of the system (window sensors, PIRs etc.) still work?
I then need to re-fit the door sensors; presumably I reverse the de-activation and re-fit them. Do Yale still do parts for this system? It would seem a good time to get a couple of new sensors for the doors and ask the fitters to attach them. I suppose my question is can I remove the door sensors and the system will still work with the other bits ,pending re-fitting of new door sensors? I don't want the alarm to go off while the new door is being fitted, but if I take out the batteries (from the door sensors) it won't, will it?

 

[JohnD]

yes, once you take the batteries out, the sensors will do nothing. When you put the batteries back, they will work again.

You did not say if you have a control panel or not.

If you mean you are having plastic doors, you may need extra care to put the magnets so they line up with the arrow on the sensor. In the past I have moulded white filler or silicone to make a support.

You can still get the 6000 range sensors. For example Screwfix usually sell them. The part no's begin HSA6... You can also often get second hand ones on ebay if you need to save money.

 

[Vicario]

Thanks JohnD. All my local Screwfix stores have plenty in stock and I'll pop down there this morning. But another thought - I see from their website that there are newer versions of this alarm (I want one that doesn't need hard-wiring into the mains, just the basic setup). Do you recommend an upgrade while I'm dismantling my current system (partly) or should mine (installed 2010) go on for years?

 

[JohnD]

The new ones are said to be better but your old one will last for years.

Is it the 6400 with control panel and telephone alerts?

 

[bernardgreen]

If the frame is being changed then you could leave the sensor on the door frame while the frame is removed from the wall. Then remove the sensor from the frame when the frame is far enough away to be out of wireless range of the system. The alarm won't realise it is missing. Then refit it on the new door frame.

If the frame is not being changed then just remove the magnet from the door and the sensor will not create any signals while it remains attached to the frame and un-affected by the magnet.

If you are fitting a plastic door and / or frame then be aware that there is likely to be metal inside the plastic and this metal can affect the operation of the sensor

[1] it can absorb some of the magnetic field mean the maximum possible gap between magnet and sensor is reduced..

[2] it can absorb or re-direct the energy of the wireless signal meaning the signal received by the panel or siren is reduced and may be too low for reliable operation.

 

[Vicario]

It does have a (round) control pad for the wall but we tend to use the key fobs - it's the very basic version (and the cheapest!). I've bought two new sensors. One thing about the Screwfix order system is that it doesn't give the manufacturer's reference code, just lots of pictures and then their own order code, which is totally different. The new systems work on 800MHz and mine is just 300 but the sensors and PIRs are remarkably similar. Thanks to your help I checked on the box before leaving the store - they are part HSA6010 so that's correct. It was on the very first page of their alarms section.
My current system is attached to plastic doors and frames, but I'll check carefully when fitting onto the new ones.
My insurance company has always refused to give me a discount for having this alarm as it's not wired in. Yet friends have often had hassle with their complicated ones and this one has never given any trouble.

 

[JohnD]

the 6400 is much better than your existing unit, and is currently on offer. All your existing sensors and controls and siren can be used with it. The ability to dial out in the event of an alarm actuation is a great benefit. It also enables you to part-set at night ("home") e.g. the downstairs sensors, as well as full-set when you are out ("away") and the panel can be set to chime when certain doors are opened, if you wish. This lets you hear if someone has come in (or small children got out) even when the alarm is not set. This is also useful if you keep your back door, shed or garage unlocked during the day.

You can conceal the control panel upstairs and keep your round keypad near the front door.

Screwfix shows the Yale part no's on
http://www.screwfix.com/c/security-ironmongery/burglar-alarms/cat810260

 

[bernardgreen]

My insurance company has always refused to give me a discount for having this alarm as it's not wired in. Yet friends have often had hassle with their complicated ones and this one has never given any trouble.

Yours is actually more complicated than the wired ones your friends have. A wired door sensor has only a simple magnetic reed switch, your wireless sensor has to have that reed switch and then at least a wireless transmitter and a battery condition monitoring circuit. Either of those can fail and render that sensor in-operative without the panel being aware it has lost a sensor. A wireless system with two way communications ( each sensor has to have a receiver as well as a transmitter ) can detect a sensor is "missing" or other wise not operational and can alert the user to that fault. A two way system will check all sensors before allowing the system to be set. Most systems with one way communications can be set with a protected door open as the system cannot ask the sensor if the door is closed. The user is not made aware that a door is open.

That is why insurance companies do not recognise wireless alarms other than a professionally installed system with two way communications.