Zinsser BIN & treating knots (or Bullseye 123)

11 Dec 2007
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United Kingdom
I've used BIN before. Bit (or rather a lot) of a P.I.T.A to work with but it did the job well when i used it. I painted the doorframes which we'd stripped back as best we could to wood, taking off 80 years & god knows how many layers of paint & some weird honey coloured glue like stuff.

Thing with these is - i painted the whole lot.

I've got a fair bit of skirting to paint up. If i can get away with spot treating the knots then i will.
Either way, on top of the Zinsser i'd be using Johnstones Water Based Primer/Undercoat & then Sikkens Satin Water Based paint. Rubbol BL Satura or whatever weird name it has.

My concern is that where i spot treat the knots it'll flash through the primer & top coat.

Has anyone used this & can comment on what i should expect (as far as flashing through goes) with this?

Also, the Bullseye 123 is a stain blocker, so why would you use one over the other?
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BIN is great for spot priming knots, go over them twice though as an insurance and lightly sand when dry to remove any fat edges. Regular patent knotting has a habit of bleeding through water based coats, not a problem with BIN though as it is pigmented white. As you've stripped the skirting back to bare wood you'll have to give them two coats of the acrylic primer/undercoat after doing the knots to get a solid foundation for the satin and the extra undercoat guarantees that the BIN will be covered. Bullseye is not suitable for knots, you need shellac for them which is what BIN is made of.

Are you speaking from experience by the way? (as in have you spot treated with BIN yourself & did it flash through or not, even if just a little?).

I actually haven't taken the skirting back to bare wood, although i know what you said still applies. The skirting is brand new wood anyway so as yet has no coating.

Photo 01-06-2016, 4 46 39 pm.jpg

I am also going to be painting interior doors (two of). I'm guessing that the BIN is better than the 123 in this case also (since i don't want any of that dark colour to show through, plus the doors had previously been varnished which i may have missed some bits when removing).

Looks like i'll have to buy a 2.5L tin instead of a 1L.
Yes I'm speaking from experience. I knot all new wood with BIN, it dries quicker than patent knotting so it's more convenient. If the primer/undercoat is of decent quality, as in trade standard, then you'll have no problem with flashing. Definitely go with BIN for the doors, it hides dark colours better than the 123 which I've found to be quite poor in terms of obliterating dark colours.
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My experience is over sanded gloss paint. Which is one of its primary purposes. Maybe its ok on bare wood.

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