Zinsser Bulls Eye 123 - a few questions after first time use

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Hi all

I used some Zinsser Bulls Eye 123 a few days ago, for the first time. I'll be using Sikkens Rubbol Satura BL as the top coat. (And I used Purdy brushes for the first time :D ). Got a few questions if anyone can help...?

1. Did we put the primer on too thinly? Here's some photos:




In the last photo, the vertical piece was painted on the varnish (the previous paint had been removed), whereas the horizontal piece had the old satin paint beneath. So - did we apply too thinly?

2. In this case (AND more generally), is it best to go with one coat of primer and 2 or 3 of topcoat, or vice versa?

3. Should we always sand lightly in between coats?

4. Should we stir the paint periodically whilst painting and if so how often (and is this different for the topcoat paint)?


Many thanks

Max
 
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You have to remember what primer is. Its not a decorative coat of paint, its job is to satisfy the porousity of the timber and provide a suitable surface for further paint products.
It is important to stir any paint before use as binder and pigment can seperate in the tin and in your kettle if used for a long time.
The primer doesn't look to thin and they can look a bit transparant sometimes because they're not really a high obliteration coating like undercoat is.
Yes its good to rub down between coats, a primer only needs a light sand to de nib and smooth down any raised grain.

Next step is filling, allow to dry, rub down and prime then two coats of satura.
 
That's all good news then! Thanks for replying and explaining. One thing though..... When you say:

Next step is filling, allow to dry, rub down and prime then two coats of satura.

Do you mean we should add a second coat of primer (123) after the filing and rub down?
 
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Hard to say really, toupret fillers are very good and if their advice is no need to spot prime i guess it's ok. The reason for spot priming is the filler is more porous than the substrate and this causes flashing where it sucks up more moisture from the paint. Generally if your following up with two coats of top coat you'd be alright anyway but for the sake of spending a couple of minutes spot priming you could save yourself time against having to put an extra coat on the whole thing if the flashing doesn't go away.

I use bin as a blocker sealer rather than a primer because its expensive and hard to brush out, 123 is fine. I also find the aerosol coverstain very handy, its a bit pricey but its a huge time saver as with no brushes involved i can just spray and go
 
Hi guys

We've got some more painting to do today. We've primed with the 123 and filled already. We're about to sand down and will then go for the next coat. What I wondered was, is it ok to go for a second coat of the 123? The reason being, by the time we have spot primed the filled sections (of which there are a lot) I thought I might as well just give the frame a whole second coat of primer. This might then mean we would need one less coat of topcoat. And the two advantages of that would be:

1. I have more of the 123 than I do of the Satura Satin. So I might not have to buy any more of anything.
2. The 123 is cheaper than the Satura, so I'd rather use more of that!

But I don't know if having two coats of the Primer would cause problems?

Cheers

Max
 
On a different subject replace that toy rim-lock for a kite-marked lock - no insurance cover otherwise.
 
Yes the night latch (not rimlock)

We are thinking of changing this to a mortice lock. Like you , I thought this would have an effect on our insurance. So I called up to find out and the said it would not make any difference at all. I think the case here is that with a lot of insurance companies it would matter, but with Swift Cover (who we are with) it does not matter. In fact, they don;t even ask about locks etc during the application stage....
 
I'd read the small print if I were you.
 

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