undoing pump nuts

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hi there people,
I am trying to get the pump off of my c/h system but the valve nuts are siezed on,so i was wondering what is the best way of getting these of?
Cheers dazz :cry:
 
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I usually try putting a large flat bladed screwdriver on them and tapping it with a hammer. If that doesn't free them after 2 or 3 hits I cut through them with a junior hacksaw then replace with new nuts.
 
would you replace the valves anyway,because they are 10 years + old
Also what do you use to undo them at the moment i have a monkey wrench or do you use a pump nut spanner?
 
If they dont succumb (oooerr missus) to a pump spanner, just go straight to a senior (no not spanish) hacksaw. And if the pump valves held, bobs youre uncle. No need to change them. :rolleyes:

the pump spanner im thinking of, is the 52mm one from screwboys.
 
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a big pair of gordon grips :LOL:

wen that doesn't work a hammer and chisel

and if that doesn't work either hacksaw through the nut or if they look like they need replacing bung the system and undo from the pipe and replace the entire valve
 
Try hitting the points of the nuts with a hammer in the undoing direction. That often unseizes them.
You could also try heating it up , with a blowlamp if possible.
Normally large grips are adequate.
If not, the either an 18" adjustable or a special spanner you can get from some plumbers' merchants. Or an old style F shaped spanner.
Don't use Stillsons because they squash the nut.

If you use a file or hacksaw to make a notch in the nut, and then hit into that with a screwdriver or cold chisel, you'll either undo or break the nut. You can get new nuts.

If the nuts are gate valve type and they open and close OK you can keep them. Quarter turn ball valve type will always leak through the stem and need replacing.
 
The hammer /chisel method will free just about any nut within a few sharp hits.
But remember if its around the cylinder or on a long run of unclipped pipe to support it in some way so that the vibration does not damage a joint further along the pipe
 
I find get footprint 12's to bight and then give them a sharp tap with your knocking stick (for instance your footprint 9's). this starts most pump valve nuts. It's not a question of a hard strong hammer blow it's the shock of a tap. The beauty of the footprint is it bights, tap in direction of bight; all the force goes into freeing the nut, then continue to undo in usual way.
 
i change the pump head only. [assuming make still available] and use one of those flexi buckets in case valves passing + old dust sheet as blotter.:cool:
 
There's a knack in undo pump nuts.

The more pressure the harder the job.

Tapping the points of the nuts in the right direction is the easy way, once they move loose grips.
 
If only us "engineers" put a smear of copper grease on the pump threads during installation, the world would be a better place.
 
Better still use the rubber washers and just nip up the nut rather than using fibre washer and getting king kong to do nuts up :confused:
 
Funny, none of you have mentioned heating the nut!

Amusingly a colleague I often have to help out replaced the pump head but when he finished one of the nuts was leaking!

He had to call me for help as there was a control fault. ( Valve motor o/c )

I applied heat and in this instance it was all that was needed.

Tony
 

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