Replacement radiator is colder at bottom than it is at top.
- Thread starter fluff29
- Start date
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Hopefully D_Hailsam comes on-line as he knows the backgrounds.
Still trying to get an engineer. Explained my problem to the first engineer. He says that I will have sludge in the system and that it will be £500 for a power flush.
Could this be correct? and can he make this judgement without looking at the problem?
Any advice would be great.
Thanks
Fluff
Still trying to get an engineer. Explained my problem to the first engineer. He says that I will have sludge in the system and that it will be £500 for a power flush.
Could this be correct? and can he make this judgement without looking at the problem?
Any advice would be great.
Thanks
Fluff
If the next engineer suggest a power flush, point out that:
1. It's a new radiator
2. None of the other rads have the same problem
3. You have replace the other rads without having this problem.
A power flush is a solution looking for a problem.
Find a better cowboy
Hi all
Still continuing with this saga. Had probs getting plumber, hence time delay.
Problem - Dining room rad still not heating at bottom.
Latest investigation/info:-
On putting boiler on from cold, all TRV's fully open, the flow pipe from the boiler goes boiling hot, fires for about 30 seconds, then cuts out. I think the pump continues to run for a few minutes and the flow pipe from the boiler goes quite cool. The boiler then fires up again after about 3 minutes. This cycle keeping continuing.
Plumber has fitted new pump, this was not problem. He thinks that there is a blockage in the pipework as the thermostat is cutting out because the flow is restricted and the boiler thinks that the water has reached temperature.
Around £400 for a power flush but no guarantee that this will solve it. If it doesn't work they will need to cut back the pipework.
Anybody think that this is possibly the problem?
thanks
fluff
Still continuing with this saga. Had probs getting plumber, hence time delay.
Problem - Dining room rad still not heating at bottom.
Latest investigation/info:-
On putting boiler on from cold, all TRV's fully open, the flow pipe from the boiler goes boiling hot, fires for about 30 seconds, then cuts out. I think the pump continues to run for a few minutes and the flow pipe from the boiler goes quite cool. The boiler then fires up again after about 3 minutes. This cycle keeping continuing.
Plumber has fitted new pump, this was not problem. He thinks that there is a blockage in the pipework as the thermostat is cutting out because the flow is restricted and the boiler thinks that the water has reached temperature.
Around £400 for a power flush but no guarantee that this will solve it. If it doesn't work they will need to cut back the pipework.
Anybody think that this is possibly the problem?
thanks
fluff
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not read 8000 pages worth but if you close all rads except problem rad and boiler gets to temp in 30 secs and cycles it would suggest a partial blockage of some kind, i wouldnt think fully blocked as wouldnt heat atall, is it plastic or copper pipes, if the pipes are blocked, generally a powerflush machine will not move the blockage, the pumps arent that powerful on a domestic machine, if 10mm plastic you also have to bear in mind where it goes through joints and things it reduces to around 8mm atleast and this is generally where blockages occur on plastic, so if blocked may aswell cut out 1st then flush it, if its onlt this rad, cut out and see how it runs, maybe no need for a flush, like i sad if its blocked it will need cutting out anyway
hi ollie20
don't blame you for not wanting to read all the pages.
It is copper microbore.
If all rads switched off except problem one, the rad will do the same and only partially heat at top 2/3 (not boiling hot) with slow return of around 30 deg temperature difference between flow and return. Other smaller rads in house heat fully to bottom.
I am more inclined to repipe the problem rad in 10 or 15mm then see what happens with the blockage??
?Do you think its a pipe problem rather than boiler?
thanks
don't blame you for not wanting to read all the pages.
It is copper microbore.
If all rads switched off except problem one, the rad will do the same and only partially heat at top 2/3 (not boiling hot) with slow return of around 30 deg temperature difference between flow and return. Other smaller rads in house heat fully to bottom.
I am more inclined to repipe the problem rad in 10 or 15mm then see what happens with the blockage??
?Do you think its a pipe problem rather than boiler?
thanks
There is a maximumn recommended run in microbore eg to & from radiator , 3 metres is it to rad (10mm ) anyone know ??
What you have as has been said by others is a poor flowrate either to or from rad ?? would guess on return as said blockage/ ect double rad is giving more resistance than single 15mm sorted ( I think )
What you have as has been said by others is a poor flowrate either to or from rad ?? would guess on return as said blockage/ ect double rad is giving more resistance than single 15mm sorted ( I think )
Would defo try to re-pipe in 15mm, take from main 22/ 28/ 32mm primaries if you can and run 15 as close to rad as poss before going down to 10, avoid 10 all togeather if poss, would seam more of a pipework/ blockage issure rather than a boiler issue as all other rads hating properly
You're paying, its not his fault if doesnt work ( i think it will), its your call aslong as he gets paid, and you take the blame and say b4 hand whats the issue
as ollie, remembered the post from months back but haven't trawled through all the posts.
have you tried removing the rad ,putting a hose on the valves and blasting the water through each leg to see if that shifts anything? worth a try, plus it will push a lot more water through than your pump alone, and at a much higher pressure.
have you tried removing the rad ,putting a hose on the valves and blasting the water through each leg to see if that shifts anything? worth a try, plus it will push a lot more water through than your pump alone, and at a much higher pressure.
hi rojaca
I haven't tried this as my husband didn't feel comfortable taking the rad off. Local plumbers won't even look at doing this for us.
Forgot that when the plumber replaced the pump tonight, there was alot of dirt and grit around the pump and excessive amounts of fernox. The plumber thinks that the previous owner had problems and had just topped up with lots of fernox to try and fix it.
thanks for your thoughts
I haven't tried this as my husband didn't feel comfortable taking the rad off. Local plumbers won't even look at doing this for us.
Forgot that when the plumber replaced the pump tonight, there was alot of dirt and grit around the pump and excessive amounts of fernox. The plumber thinks that the previous owner had problems and had just topped up with lots of fernox to try and fix it.
thanks for your thoughts
I wonder how you know about Fernox in the water?
In all those four pages no one has suggested the bucket test. ( See FAQ )
That will identify if one of the pipes to rad is blocked and even which one!
It seems you are surrounded by £500 cowboys. In most areas power flushes are about £250-£350, least during the quiet summer period.
After the bucket test the system can probably best be cleaned chemically. But I would need further information including the bucket test results.
Tony
In all those four pages no one has suggested the bucket test. ( See FAQ )
That will identify if one of the pipes to rad is blocked and even which one!
It seems you are surrounded by £500 cowboys. In most areas power flushes are about £250-£350, least during the quiet summer period.
After the bucket test the system can probably best be cleaned chemically. But I would need further information including the bucket test results.
Tony
Hi agile Thanks for your reply. When the plumber removed the pump yesterday, he smelt the fernox. He also smelt it previously when a seal in the boiler was leaking and the boiler was drained into a basin.
I am now away to look at how difficult it is to do the bucket test.
Will get back to you.
Thanks Fluff
I am now away to look at how difficult it is to do the bucket test.
Will get back to you.
Thanks Fluff
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