I saw an american Tv programme which showed how to draughtproof a pine floor by spreading a sealant with a mop type thing before final sanding. The sealant filled up the gaps between the floorboards most effectively. I have tried to track this product in the UK but with no success. Can you help?
wooden Floors
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Could be a two-part floor treatments. There are makes by Sadolin and Clarkes/Clarksons. They are pretty nasty and use an acid, which burns the wood a quite attractive red, unless you use a sealer. The stuff is thick and tough and does a good job of filling in most holes, cracks etc.
This might be what the programme was talking about.
This might be what the programme was talking about.
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I am currently searching the web to find the best method of sealing gaps in wooden floors and found your query. What I have been advised to do is to use the sawdust from the sanding mixed with a PVA type wood glue and use the mixture as a filler.
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I don't think so because under the floor should be well ventilated via air brick vent,therefore no bottom heat rise from the bottom oversite to timber for it to condensate.If you think about the loft insulation on the ceiling level is no difference.Giblets46 said:
It is possible, in theory, to insulate a suspended timber gound floor without increasing the risk of rot.
The insulation would need to be supspended between the floor joists and not project lower than them. Easily done if you can get underneath, but less so if you can't.
However, whatever the insulation was suspended on would have to be something that could not rot, so nylon netting might work. However, great care would be needed to ensure that the insulation never dropped or it may block the air flow under the floor.
In practice if you really want a well insulated floor consider replacing the suspended timber floor with a concrete or block and beam floor. Again this needs to be properly designed to avoid bridging the DPC.
The insulation would need to be supspended between the floor joists and not project lower than them. Easily done if you can get underneath, but less so if you can't.
However, whatever the insulation was suspended on would have to be something that could not rot, so nylon netting might work. However, great care would be needed to ensure that the insulation never dropped or it may block the air flow under the floor.
In practice if you really want a well insulated floor consider replacing the suspended timber floor with a concrete or block and beam floor. Again this needs to be properly designed to avoid bridging the DPC.
I used the brown external frame sealant to fill between my boards. I found it a) easier to apply as I used the gun and b) it is flexible so it doesnt crack like the papier mache filler I used previously
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