Oh and don't forget to bleed the heat exchanger at the top left
Advice on Intergas HRE 28/24 not firing heating
- Thread starter lbstyling
- Start date
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Not at home for a few hours, so will get on it tonight!
I have 9 rads, but 5 of them are the fancy new non convector ones that look like the old cast iron ones. These look like they take a lot of water compared to double convectors if that changes anything.
I have 9 rads, but 5 of them are the fancy new non convector ones that look like the old cast iron ones. These look like they take a lot of water compared to double convectors if that changes anything.
40% will be fine. It'll save you money too 
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That would've given him a constant demand for heating Tony he had the opposite problem!
And you definitely aren't the only one I may have done it myself - several times
And you definitely aren't the only one I may have done it myself - several times
Has caused the occasional "huh" moment here too.
OK,
Opened valve to let air out (located top left of case- same one as before...was this the right one, or was it one inside the unit?
perimeter 3 has been set to 40 (was 70).
What have I actually changed here?
And dhw/CH temps have been adjusted.
On a side note- toastie in here!
Opened valve to let air out (located top left of case- same one as before...was this the right one, or was it one inside the unit?
perimeter 3 has been set to 40 (was 70).
What have I actually changed here?
And dhw/CH temps have been adjusted.
On a side note- toastie in here!
Parameter 3 is the percentage of boiler output used for the heating.
Nearly every newish installation we inherit has a boiler far too powerful for the house it is installed in.
With combination boilers it is me or less inevitable; and made to poor comfort and efficiency.
Setting p3, or in the case of Vaillants, d.0 to the correct level for the property is a good thing on every level.
Nearly every newish installation we inherit has a boiler far too powerful for the house it is installed in.
With combination boilers it is me or less inevitable; and made to poor comfort and efficiency.
Setting p3, or in the case of Vaillants, d.0 to the correct level for the property is a good thing on every level.
Glad to hear you're pump has survived.
Also impressed that the installer had the sense to set P.0 to protect it.
Maybe send him a thank you card.
Also impressed that the installer had the sense to set P.0 to protect it.
Maybe send him a thank you card.
So its more efficient, and at worst I could just up it slightly if I felt the heating system wasn't capable of getting the house to a warm enough level in the coldest of winter?
While I'm thinking about it, at a later date, would you suggest its worth swapping out the bdr91 relay for the opentherm version?
Just thinking.
While I'm thinking about it, at a later date, would you suggest its worth swapping out the bdr91 relay for the opentherm version?
Just thinking.
Yes on both counts.
OK, cool,
Ive found the opentherm R8810A1018 honeywell for £84 on plumbnation.
My best guess is a 5-10% saving on gas, that amount would presumably increase the more often the heating was changed in target temp or the outside temp changed?
Assuming my gas bill was a conservative£600-800 a year, that's a 12 to 24 month payback ratio.
7 year payback is the minimum for my project, so this would be a go.
All sound about right?
Ive found the opentherm R8810A1018 honeywell for £84 on plumbnation.
My best guess is a 5-10% saving on gas, that amount would presumably increase the more often the heating was changed in target temp or the outside temp changed?
Assuming my gas bill was a conservative£600-800 a year, that's a 12 to 24 month payback ratio.
7 year payback is the minimum for my project, so this would be a go.
All sound about right?
Depends on where you take your reference point for the savings.
Setting the heating flow temperature to 55 might well achieve the same savings for no investment costs.
Setting the heating flow temperature to 55 might well achieve the same savings for no investment costs.
Is the boiler more efficient at 55 deg? Or is that statement based on the lower difference between a room temp and the water temp giving lower losses through pipework etc? Just wondering.
Actually, on that front- lagging pipes would presumably help?
Plus, I would assume that any benefit from reducing the CH output temp could be added to the benefits of using opentherm as opposed to 'instead' of?
I'm sure all this has been debated before, I'm just musing ideas about it all!
Actually, on that front- lagging pipes would presumably help?
Plus, I would assume that any benefit from reducing the CH output temp could be added to the benefits of using opentherm as opposed to 'instead' of?
I'm sure all this has been debated before, I'm just musing ideas about it all!
Give our take a few variances from time to time, at 55 the boiler is condensing (recovering every bit of energy from the flue gazes it can) throughout the heat exchanger. Advice that and the top of the heat exchanger losses efficiency and the new the temperature goes up, the further this spreads down.
OpenTherm is just a communication protocol, and the end result depends on Evohome, the control strategy and the settings entered into the boiler.
It it's not difficult, but can be quite involved and to get the most out of it the system needs to be designed from the ground up.
OpenTherm is just a communication protocol, and the end result depends on Evohome, the control strategy and the settings entered into the boiler.
It it's not difficult, but can be quite involved and to get the most out of it the system needs to be designed from the ground up.
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