Twin socket behind a bookcase

I am posting here to find out what #1) is as I have no idea and hopefully I have made that clear.
You seem to have ruled out every option except getting an electrician to extend the circuit from the existing socket by crimping new lengths of cable on, put a socket somewhere else and replace the old socket with a blanking plate....

Perhaps you should re-read my posts here then. The only option I have definitely ruled out is cutting holes in my bookcase. Frankly your posts have not helped.
 
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The access to the socket is important. And the need to remember it is there is also important if ever an electrician has to fault find on that circuit and the fault is in that socket. Leave a note by the consumer unit that there is a heiiden socket. I have had experience of that. ( sockets that are never used are just as likely to get a loose connection as sockets used every day ).

A compromise is that the book case can be easily moved if necessary when any alectrical fault finding has to be carried out.
 
The access to the socket is important. And the need to remember it is there is also important if ever an electrician has to fault find on that circuit and the fault is in that socket. Leave a note by the consumer unit that there is a heiiden socket. I have had experience of that. ( sockets that are never used are just as likely to get a loose connection as sockets used every day ).

A compromise is that the book case can be easily moved if necessary when any alectrical fault finding has to be carried out.

I understand that access is important and I completely agree, the bookcase CAN be moved out of the way at any time that access to the plug is required (although this is not something you would want to do every day hence the original question).

I intended to run 4-way extension leads from the sockets behind the bookcase but this seems to have been ignored by most people here (who seem more intent on cutting holes in the bookcase) :(
 
What will you do if the extension lead and / or its cable starts to over heat or burn due to a fault in the block of sockets ? Normally one would turn off the socket and pull out the plug. It will take you several minutes to do that if you have to move the book case first. Or will you turn off at the consumer unit as a faster way to stop the burning.

A 13 amp fuse in the plug will allow nearly 3 Kw of power to pass in normal use and in a fault condition will pass a lot more than 3 Kw before it finally blows. Putting more than 3 Kw of heat in the space of an extension lead means things are going to get very hot before the fuse blows.
 
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But the fuse wouldn't be accessible John.

I'd get a local electrician to move the socket over, to the side of the book case, using mini trunking (which the bookcase will hide), which involves no chasing out, and probably just 2 hours labour (subject to existing earthing and bonding status).
 
Yes, I agree. That's my favoured option though I did describe others.
I'd go for a local electrician recommended by friends and neighbours who is also a member of a self-certification scheme (you need both to get a good one).

As the bookcase will hide whatever is behind it, you can have the old socket taken away, and cable run to a new double socket to the side of the bookcase. If this is done using crimped permanent connections it does not have to be accessible for inspection and maintenance. It could be done surface-mounted with cable clipped to the wall, or in minitrunking which looks fairly neat. It is not worth DIYing as buying the correct tool (about £30) and learning to use it would make it uneconomic for a single job.

Must read properly, must read properly, must read.....
 
But the fuse wouldn't be accessible John.

I'd get a local electrician to move the socket over, to the side of the book case, using mini trunking (which the bookcase will hide), which involves no chasing out, and probably just 2 hours labour (subject to existing earthing and bonding status).

I think this is probably what we will end up doing even though John continues to go on about ruining our bookcase.
 
What will you do if the extension lead and / or its cable starts to over heat or burn due to a fault in the block of sockets ? Normally one would turn off the socket and pull out the plug. It will take you several minutes to do that if you have to move the book case first. Or will you turn off at the consumer unit as a faster way to stop the burning.

A 13 amp fuse in the plug will allow nearly 3 Kw of power to pass in normal use and in a fault condition will pass a lot more than 3 Kw before it finally blows. Putting more than 3 Kw of heat in the space of an extension lead means things are going to get very hot before the fuse blows.

Thank-you for the good explanation and for reminding me of this.
 
As BAS points out, if the bookcase cannot be moved to expose the old socket for Periodic Inspection Report testing (say every 5 years), you might need to remove the old socket completely and replace it with a junction box using crimped or sprung connectors. On the other hand, if the bookcase is just a valuable piece of furniture, you can keep the socket.

If you run 2.5mm² T+E cable on the surface, it can carry 6kW before overheating. Also, a permanent socket (surface mounted or otherwise), won't need isolating at the hidden sockets (unlike an extension lead).
 
It's a funny old world, isn't it.

I suggest getting an electrician to extend the circuit from the existing socket by crimping new lengths of cable on, put a socket somewhere else and replace the old socket with a blanking plate, and the OP tells me that didn't help.

londonboy says "I'd get a local electrician to move the socket over, to the side of the book case, using mini trunking (which the bookcase will hide), which involves no chasing out, and probably just 2 hours labour (subject to existing earthing and bonding status)" and the OP thanks him for a useful post.


I asked if the bookcase goes all the way to the ceiling, to which the answer was "The bookcase does go all the way up to the ceiling", so I didn't pursue the option of raising it up (although my method would have used wooden battens and legs to match the bookcase).

OwainDIYer asks "Could you raise the bookcase on bricks so you can reach under it to get to the sockets?" and the OP thanks him for a useful post.
 

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