Twin socket behind a bookcase

[canrewireaplug]

It's a funny old world, isn't it.

I suggest getting an electrician to extend the circuit from the existing socket by crimping new lengths of cable on, put a socket somewhere else and replace the old socket with a blanking plate, and the OP tells me that didn't help.

londonboy says "I'd get a local electrician to move the socket over, to the side of the book case, using mini trunking (which the bookcase will hide), which involves no chasing out, and probably just 2 hours labour (subject to existing earthing and bonding status)" and the OP thanks him for a useful post.


I asked if the bookcase goes all the way to the ceiling, to which the answer was "The bookcase does go all the way up to the ceiling", so I didn't pursue the option of raising it up (although my method would have used wooden battens and legs to match the bookcase).

OwainDIYer asks "Could you raise the bookcase on bricks so you can reach under it to get to the sockets?" and the OP thanks him for a useful post.

Perhaps you need to re-read your posts. They weren't particularly helpful as they implied I wasn't reading what others had written, in fact it was you who hadn't read what I had written. You also weren't the first to suggest putting a socket elsewhere.

I thanked the other posters because they were trying to help me in between all the nonsense posting from you and John (who thankfully has given up advising me to ruin my bookcase and removed his answers). Incidentally I did thank you for your original post but since it wasn't welcome I will revoke that.

 

[canrewireaplug]

As BAS points out, if the bookcase cannot be moved to expose the old socket for Periodic Inspection Report testing (say every 5 years), you might need to remove the old socket completely and replace it with a junction box using crimped or sprung connectors. On the other hand, if the bookcase is just a valuable piece of furniture, you can keep the socket.

If you run 2.5mm² T+E cable on the surface, it can carry 6kW before overheating. Also, a permanent socket (surface mounted or otherwise), won't need isolating at the hidden sockets (unlike an extension lead).

Thank-you again for your sane answers. The bookcase is a valuable piece of furniture which we would be happy to move for any socket inspection but unhappy to hack a hole into so the socket could be checked (as JohnD was suggesting over and over despite me stating it was not a solution).

I am thinking I will run the calbe as you suggest and disguise it with mini trunking if necessary (as suggested by londonboy and others).

Thanks everyone for your help (including John and ban-all-sheds, I will leave them to bash the next person asking for help now).

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Keep it up - perhaps everybody will stop trying to help you.

 

[canrewireaplug]

Keep it up - perhaps everybody will stop trying to help you.

Have you tried reading any of my posts yet?

 

[Chri5]

I'm a bit late on this:-

What happens when the fuse blows at the plug in the socket that can't be (easily) accessed ??????


Spend 2 hours removing books, unscrew the shelf unit from the wall (it will require anti topple fixing), access socket, change fuse, spend two hours re fixing and putting back book via a ladder for the top area.

Now does that seem sensible ?

Get a spark to run trunking, place 2 x 2.5mm TE cable in trunking and have the socket moved to the side. Cost £50 and NEVER any hassle with access needs.

Please be rational and accept this is the best method.

 

[Paul_C]

Could you give me a link to somewhere that sells them? I have looked and the thinnest I can find are all about 2.5cm/1inch in depth.

I can't cite a specific source off hand, although when I said "less than an inch" I really meant just a little under an inch rather than anything around half that depth.

The existing box is already protruding from the wall. I guess making it flush to the wall is an option but I've never attempted something like this before. (Off to read more about this in my DIY manual...)

Is that actually a white plastic surface box there at the moment, bringing the socket an inch or more forward from the wall? In that case I can see how it might be tight.

If so, then converting to a flush socket would involve removing the existing surface box and sinking a metal box into the plaster/brickwork. Or if it's a stud partition drywall, you could use a flush plastic box which has little "ears" to tighten onto the back of the board.

You'd still need to make sure the bookcase could be moved to gain access, of course.

 

[JohnD]

I'm a bit late on this:-

best not to say anything the OP doesn't like, it's a thankless task as she's so closed-minded

 

[ban-all-sheds]

You'd still need to make sure the bookcase could be moved to gain access, of course.

Not necessarily.

He could cut a hole in the back.

 

[big-all]

Cutting a hole in the bookcase is not an option. I don't know why this is so difficult to understand

you have as is your right made a decision on limited knowledge
i have made many tens off bespoked units a great many altered to accommodate pipes sockets stop taps you name it i have sorted it
sometimes this will includes raising the bottom shelve above the socket if its in the skirting and making the plinth a drawer in its own right a great use off wasted space
other times its a false back or even better a hole just under a shelve where where you cant see it but can easily access when needed

please dont rule things out and keep an open mind because some off the greatest ideas for your problem arnt what you think

 

[sparkwright]

OK - there are 2 ways to do this.

1) Properly.

2) Not at all.

Get an electrician to extend the circuit from the existing socket by crimping new lengths of cable on, put a socket somewhere else and replace the old socket with a blanking plate.

This has to be the way to do the job.

Alternatively, is there a socket in an adjacent room that you can spur off 'back to back'?

 

[JohnD]

I think she's gone.

 

[big-all]

I think she's gone.

possibly
its just a shame they didn't tell us

Thank-you again for your sane answers. The bookcase is a valuable piece of furniture

earlier to help us solve their problem
we can't give a useful answer with only half the relevant information

 

[JohnD]

I'm glad to see the back of her.

 

[mikhailfaradayski]

this thread was already at 4 pages when i first read it, shame can'trewireaplug has gone, i was going to ask for the argos cat no. so we could all see just how valuable this cupboard was.

 

[aptsys]

I think she's gone.

Maybe the extension leads got overloaded and set the book case on fire.