I have a two point TRV that needs changing and wonder about the total cost. Also, is there anyone in the Bushey area (near Watford) who could do this perhaps. No mad rush to get done but should be fixed. Thanks. Stephen
How much to change a TRV please?
- Thread starter Stephen19
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i live just outside Glasgow so i'm looking for about £400, if you don't get anything cheaper ler me know
Very droll, not amusing, no point...no need for you to be in this forum with such replies is there?
Good question! I mean to say it has two connected pipes. I think (maybe wrong) that some trv's have three connected pipes. If this is all wrong then excuse me, I do have a photo if that helps but not sure how to post that on here? I think that this is a fairly simple job for a qualified plumber to do/advise on but I await your expert feedback. Thanks.
We do these and most other work on a fixed price basis.
Its made up of a fixed price to attend and drain and refill and then a fitting charge of £15 per valve.
The fixed charge starts at £60 if its a combi boiler but is more if its an open vented system and depends on accessibility of F&E tank.
We only do these changes at your own risk in respect of champagne coloured carpets etc.
Tony
Its made up of a fixed price to attend and drain and refill and then a fitting charge of £15 per valve.
The fixed charge starts at £60 if its a combi boiler but is more if its an open vented system and depends on accessibility of F&E tank.
We only do these changes at your own risk in respect of champagne coloured carpets etc.
Tony
Thanks Agile, a fixed price for such a job seems a sensible approach. Its a woodblock parquet floor so no risk to carpets, plus its in a corner so out of sight pretty much. I have not heard from tenant in a while so next time I am round there I shall check on this rad to see if working. Or if she complains before hand (as a cold spell is imminent I think) then I shall be back to you to see about a fix. Thanks again.
S
S
Its no good asking me because you are well outside our area!
Many in our trade look at you, look at the car on your drive and think of a figure and double it.
Anyone who is good enough to do boiler repairs is very busy at the moment!
Tony
Many in our trade look at you, look at the car on your drive and think of a figure and double it.
Anyone who is good enough to do boiler repairs is very busy at the moment!
Tony
Thanks Agile I looked at your location being London and made a false assumption.
Oh, and I ride a motor bike so that should help me!
Oh, and I ride a motor bike so that should help me!
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Given that this is a DIY forum, do you not fancy having a go at this yourself?
It is relatively easy to change a TRV (unless its all been painted & covered in crud) and you may be able to do it in 30 mins.
I'm sure that there are plenty here that can advise you on exactly what to do & how.
The TRV itself can be obtained at any plumbers supplies from as little as a fiver.
Might save you paying for such a small job.
It is relatively easy to change a TRV (unless its all been painted & covered in crud) and you may be able to do it in 30 mins.
I'm sure that there are plenty here that can advise you on exactly what to do & how.
The TRV itself can be obtained at any plumbers supplies from as little as a fiver.
Might save you paying for such a small job.
Yes Matty, thanks, I would love to have a go myself but have found it difficult to get the required advise, however simple this may be!
Everyone, feel free to advise me.
I do have a plumbers merchants on my doorstep and they have the required Honeywell trv for £12.99. A start...
Drain and refill Tony? For one valve? Don't be soft. I'd question the need to do that even for two or three...if you're changing the majority of the valves on a system then maybe there's a case for a full drain down, but for a small number it just wastes time while you're waiting for the drain then refilling and running around bleeding, and in the case of open vent systems potentially having to clear airlocks.
And to save you asking, I'd close down the valve at the opposite end to the one I'm changing, break out the 'leccy pipe freezer and freeze the pipe at the end I'm working on (if both ends needed changing, then of course I'd freeze both ends at the same time), stick an ice cream tub under the rad to catch drips and change the valve, air vent closed of course to create a vacuum. 20 mins max per rad, including freeze time, for one valve or 25 mins for both.
Stephen, you could bypass all the hassle of draining down or pulling a vacuum buy getting a simple pipe freezing kit.
Only £8.49 in Screwfix.
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/13369/Plumbing/Pipe-Freezing-Kits/Pipe-Freezing-Kit-220ml
Just make sure you are confident you know exactly how to change the TRV because you only have around half hour before it un-freezes
Only £8.49 in Screwfix.
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/13369/Plumbing/Pipe-Freezing-Kits/Pipe-Freezing-Kit-220ml
Just make sure you are confident you know exactly how to change the TRV because you only have around half hour before it un-freezes
Just noticed Muggles already talked about the freezing... ah well, least mine has links 
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