I would like to replace a shaver point with a direct-wired, fused outlet (for lighting). I cannot find a fused cover plate for a double wall box anywhere - does anyone know if they exist? If not, I could make one with a panel fuse holder and a double blanking plate - but before I do, I thought I'd see if anyone knows of a ready made, commercial item.
Fused outlet, double box
- Thread starter elsabio
- Start date
- http://www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:part-p
- Why fused? Have you checked to see from which circuit the shaver socket is supplied? Very common for it to be the lighting one.
Never seen one.
That would not comply with the Wiring Regulations, and might be illegal.
Replace the back box with a single one, and (probably) just a switch, assuming that would be OK from a Zone POV. Or keep the box and install (probably) an ordinary switch, but you'll end up with 2 or 3 unused rockers on it.
The shaver point is supplied from a lighting circuit.
Fused because this is for an over-mirror light that requires a 3A fused spur.
This would be very difficult as it is fitted behind 600mm x 600mm porcelain tiles which overlap the aperture on the long edges.. Also, this will be behind the mirror, so I don't have space for switches etc., and as this will be within 600mm of a basin, would not be appropriate for zone. What I want is just to connect the flex through a cover plate, not to add switching, which is done via an integrated IR sensor in this case.
I wouldn't have thought that behind a mirror was the cleverest place to have a fuse.
Hand basins don't create zones.
There's room behind the mirror for a flex outlet plate?
What do the installation instructions say about where to run cables?
No, but that piece of intelligence belonged to the builders and electrician who put the shaver socket so close to the midline of the hand basin, so now I have no choice.
Sorry - this is Zone 2 with a 30mA RCD.
For the through-the-edge variety, yes, not through the front of the plate.
Roper-Rhodes are a little trusting when it comes to instructions
. It says Class 1, requires earth, use 3A fuse in a fused spur. The flex is irritatingly short, (and would take a 13A load by the look of it) but supplies a LED controller and lamp over the mirror and an isolating transformer for an integrated shaver socket. The LEDs are switched with an integrated IR sensor, so you can do Tommy Cooper impersonations to turn it on and off 
What will you do if the fuse ever blows?
A flex outlet plate is not, strictly speaking, a socket outlet, so I guess, strictly speaking, it's not forbidden to have it in Zone 2, but it is a bit dodgy, and when you look at what the regulations explicitly allow in Zone 2 you'd definitely be contravening the spirit of them.
I would advise against having it there.
Remove the mirror I guess
Actually, this is mounted on hangers plus one stabilising screw, so that would not be difficult, though admittedly, mildly inconvenient.
My first thought actually was to modify the mirror/cabinet (really, this is a low-profile cabinet that is more mirror than storage) to have its own fuse and not have a fuse at the flex outlet at all - but that is probably worse.
Only a short distance away, also zone 2, (in all three bathrooms btw) there is a flex outlet plate to which supplementary electrical heaters are connected for the towel warmers. These are on the 30A ring and only 40cm from the floor. These have already survived part P certification, so in terms of safety, what I want to achieve at the mirror is much less significant.
can you spray the 30a supplyed flex outlet plates with the shower?
As it requires a tool to remove the mirror, does that move the area around the outlet behind the mirror outside zone 2 ?
Interesting. My understanding (but the last time I actually read the regs was at edition 15 and have only dipped into odd areas I needed since then) is that this applies to enclosed spaces like boxing-in with inspection hatches and below the bath etc. Seems like it is a similar situation.
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