Salamander ESP 140 CPV twin just installed won't cut off

[stu65]

Hi there I hope some one can help a newbe. I've just spent the day installing my new Salamander pump. Pipe work went well made sure the pump which is for the whole house takes the feed from the header tank for cold and the boiler tank for hot.
Went to switch it on and every thing went well the system came on and water with a force you could only dream of came out of the taps and shower. To be honest may be a bit too powerful, how ever. The issue is that the pump will not shut off. I've looked at the LED's and the slim info in the installation hand book but without joy. I've tried turn on and off (5-6secs) etc as the book says. I do not have ball stop cocks one of the toilets in the house so I've turned that one off (inline valve) for the minute to remove that issue.

Would anyone be able to help me, I'd really appreciate it. Many thanks in advance.

 

[picasso]

What do you mean by boiler tank ?

 

[stu65]

Sorry my mistake the hot watre tank. cheers.

 

[picasso]

do you know if its running in negative head mode ? if it is a driping tap will keep it running, 4.3 bar, that will test your plumbing fittings

 

[stu65]

I've tried in positive and negative modes. I can't find any minor leaks or dripping taps.

Your note of caution is well received, i'm a little concerned where all this pumped water is going.

 

[picasso]

Go over the instructions very carefully and make sure you have complied with all the requirements, you may have over looked something simple.

 

[seco services]

checked the flow switch ?

 

[stu65]

How do you do this?

I've set the led's to Positive and also tried negative is this what you mean?

Many thanks it sounds as if this could help.

 

[stu65]

I do not have a flow rate sensor on the system.

My thoughts are that I have the pump connected to the cold water tank in the loft via 22mm, I believe this should be 28mm and reducing to 22mm close to the pump is this correct?

The pump is getting warm/hot on the cold side of the twin pump which leads me to believe that the in flow from the tank is not sufficent to the pump. Does this make sense?

 

[TicklyT]

Just to be sure - How is the hot supply connected? - It isn't pumping water up the cylinder vent pipe, or round a hot water loop is it?.

(The cold side of the pump heating up suggests to me that the problem is on the hot side. If it's pumping hot water but the cold water flow is zero, the cold water stuck in the pump will heat up - all that energy it's putting into it has to go somewhere.)

 

[stu65]

Thanks for the idea. I've managed to move this on a little today and changed the pipe work to ensure the flow to the pump is a little more direct.
The cold is direct from the storage tank in the loft there are two large tanks which feed into a 28mm pipe. I have taken this to the pump and then the outlet side connects up to all the original cold water pipes with 22mm.
The hot water is direct from the hot water tank in the airing cabinet, This is via a salamander S connection. I have of course kept the vent pipe back to the storage tank.

All the pipe work seems to be fine water is getting to all taps and showers with the pump off, when the pump is engaged all taps and showers have a good pressure (no leaks which is nice!).

The problem is that the pump just will not switch off manually. If I play around with the Pos+ and Neg- pressure modes the pump will switch off. However as soon as you open a tap or shower the pump starts but again will not switch off. The last fault I had was that the temperature was too high so the pump cut out. This was as a direct result of the pump as you point out churning the water and raising its temperature in the pump. (For info. - the boiler is set at 58degrees).

If I could get the pump to switch off then happy days.

Many thanks for the advice all ideas gratefully received.

 

[seco services]

I do not have a flow rate sensor on the system.

you have flow switch on hot/cold outlets.

what led's are on when the pumps running ?

 

[stu65]

Yellow when I set the system to pos+ head and green when I set it to neg- head. There are three Red LED's the only one that comes on in the final one which is due to the heat in the hot water side of the pump being raised above the shut down temp due to the water being churned in the pump.

Regarding the flow switch could you advise me what I'm looking for and where they are?

Thanks for all advice.

 

[JayJay1978]

The flow switches are what triggers the pump when water flows through it, disconnect your pump and shake it upside down, you should hear rattles from each side hot & cold (or left & right).

Have you checked the filters?

When my Salamander pump did this, Salamander tech told me to shake the pump to free off the stuck flow switches. It turned out they were jammed on so they sent out a new pump and it worked fine.

 

[stu65]

Many thanks I'll try this out and let you know what happens.

One final point I have two toilets which do not have a ball float in them, the water feed is slower and the over flow goes into the pan rather than down an over pipe plumber out through the wall. It seems I need to have ball floats. Would anyone know if there is a replace ball float for toilets with small cisterns?

Many thanks for all those who have looked and those that have given very needed advice.