Overfilled Baxi Solo 3 and now it's leaking

[gizmotech]

I did the most stupidest thing tonight. Boiler was shutting down and overheating light kept coming up, So I bleed all the radiators. It still kept doing it and I could hear gurgling in the pipes near the boiler so I opened up the fill loop and started bleeding through the pressure relief valve and let the water run for about 4 minutes in the hope that this will eventually push out all the air.

Foolish I was because I stopped as soon as I noticed water spurting out from the boiler. Now water is dripping out from the boiler

Can I overfill a boiler to the extent that it starts leaking from the boiler? I didn't think that I could have popped a seal as the mains water pressure is far lower than the operating pressure.

What can I do? What else have I damaged. Please help me. I am cold. Thanks in advance.

 

[gas4you]

You shouldn't be able to make the boiler leak under that sort of pressure.

Probably just a compression joint leaking that connects to the HE.

Take the case off and have a look. The outer case does not make a seal on the boiler so it is safe to do this

 

[gizmotech]

Yeah thats what I would have thought. Anyways, this is where I am... took the case off, the joints connecting to the HE is fine and not wet or anything. Removed the cover that exposes the HE and you can see that is it slightly moist. However, the water has now slowed done and is easier to see where it is coming from. Funnily, the water is dripping from around the flue extractor area. I'm thinking whether I have a tiny leak on the HE which is squirting upwards. That is a new problem though.

I still can't figure out why it was overheating and kept making gurgling noise in the pipes. Now, it fired up once, stayed on for a bit and made some gurgling noises and then stopped. But this time the overheat light didn't come on. Could it be the pump or the thermostat as well as a leaking HE?

PS. When I switched off the boiler at the mains, there was a buzzing noise from the temperature control area. I am pretty competant that I can work on this because the area of problem is not around the gas area anyway, rather the water and electric side of thing.

Also is it easy to replace the HE and thermostat? It looks simple enough - no different from a replacing a radiator or heater matrix in a car.

 

[kevplumb]

try upping the pressure to 2 and see what happens

replacing the h/ex is an rgi job btw

 

[gizmotech]

The pressure is at 1.1 bars now and it has stopped leaking. I'm suprised that the HE is an RGI job as it is totally independant from any gas work.

Development. Boiler did come on again by the way and now the overheat light is on again. The boiler took over half hour to come on after the last time it came on when central heating switched on.

Seeming more and more like the thermostat. Would do you think guys. Also can I not bung something in the central heating system that wiuld eventually seal the leak in the HE or is that not advisable?

I wish my immersion waas working

 

[gizmotech]

Nearly forgot to post... it was the C/H pump.

 

[gizmotech]

Hi, my boiler has behaved absolutely well for the last year. So the other day, switched it on and shock shock horror horror, the pilot would not come on. The boiler and fan light was on. I am extremely DIY competant and see a boiler much like car engines and heater systems without the gas of course. So took the casing off and checked for kinks or leaks in the air pressure hose. both pipe seemed fine. Turned the rotar of the fan and it seemd stiff. So out came the WD40 and lubricated the rotar spindle and freed the fan up. All parts put together, fired it up, fan light come and could hear the fan spinnig, followed by the pilot followed by the burner. All well and has been ok for the last week.

Only I now have another problem. I have to keep pressurizing the system every day as it drops to about 0.5 bar. I have checked all my rads for leaks and cannot see any. I cannot also see any leaks from the boiler itself. I am concerned that the leak is pretty small and only occurs when boiler is on and the pressure is over the set 1.1 bar. Thus it is difficult to pin point where the leak is coming from as feel that it dries up as soon as it leaks due to the heat be it from the heat exchanger or the rads or gaskets.

Is there a way to diagnose the the leak is coming from. We have something that we use in cars called RadWeld that can seal leaks and often can hold leaks for years. Is there something similar I can use to avoid expensive repairs? Any help appreciated.

PS: I my heat exchanger did leak over a year ago when I over pressurised the system by accident but had been ok ever since as you can see from the above post. Had it gone worse that limescale and stuff can no longer hold?

 

[gizmotech]

Sombody? Anybody?

 

[misterdubya]

PRV?

Mr. W.

 

[MANDATE]

Sounds like the expansion vessel has lost some of its air charge.
This results in the water pressure rising more than it should and when it reaches 3bar it opens the Pressure Relief Valve.
Having discharged water, the PRV seldom seals correctly and leaves you with a small leak from the discharge pipe.
So best thing is (a) reduce water pressure to zero and check the air pressure of expansion vessel. correct air pressure if needed. (to do this follow the correct procedure)
Once pressure rise is about 1bar with heating on, deal with the PRV.
Difficult to clean, so replacement is easiest solution.

To test before you start, secure plastic bag on discharge pipe and see if it collects any water.

 

[gizmotech]

Hey guys, thanks for the reply. Yes it does make sense now. I'll check the PRV in the morning and post an update.

 

[gizmotech]

Any tips on the best way to check if the diaphragm on the Expansion Vessels blown? Can I not just stick a pin in the tyre valve and see if water comes out through there?

 

[ratonnastick]

That`s what I like a confident diy-er

You mentioned before water coming from the heat exchanger area.
Just a little warning, It is possible that the boiler is losing water from the heat exchanger when hot and you are not now seeing it.

This in the trade should be classes as immidiatly dangerous and require the boiler being cut off.

Get a pro to have a look.

 

[gizmotech]

ratonnastick, thanks but I am really beginning to think that the pressure loss is owing to either the expansion vessel or the PRV as after misterdubya and Mandate mentioned it, it jogged my memory that the pressure loss started happening after I touced the PRV. It does seem like a coincidence that the fan problem and the pressure loss came about at the same time thus I feel that the problem was the fan initially and I have created the pressure loss problem. Anyway, I have emptied the vessel out and filled the system upto 0.6 bar and then filled the vessel with 0.5 bars air. so the gauge is now sitting at 1.1 bars. I'll know in the morning if it just needed air. Couldn't thank you guys enough. Your advise is priceless.

 

[MANDATE]

I have emptied the vessel out and filled the system upto 0.6 bar and then filled the vessel with 0.5 bars air. so the gauge is now sitting at 1.1 bars. I'll know in the morning if it just needed air. Couldn't thank you guys enough. Your advise is priceless.

If you have pressurised the water to 0.6bar on a empty vessel, there will be nowhere for the water to go when you pressurise the air side.The 'air' side will have little volume and your problem will not be solved.
It is essential the 'air' side is pressurised first with no pressure on water side and open to atmosphere, so the diaphragm can move to give the maximum volume of air. Pressure should be 0.8bar.
The water pressure comes last and if taken to 1bar, it will keep the diaphragm in the same position (well almost) leaving the total capacity of the vessel with air for compression purposes, which is necessary to keep the pressure from reaching 3bar and opening the PRV.