Cold Outside Walls

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Lancashire
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I have had a few condensation issues in the past with my exterior bedroom wall which is cold all the time.

I have a cavity wall but no cavity wall insulation as the companies that do this stated my home was unsuitable as there are bits of rubble in the cavity.

I am in the process of redecorating and thought this would time to address this problem hence I have been thinking of dry lining it with some insulation.

Does anyone have any suggestions as to what would be most effective? Can I apply plasterboard straight onto the wall without hacking off the previous plaster as this doing that would be too messy? Would I use foil backed insulated plasterboard for this or is foil not acceptable as it would not allow the wall to breathe? Would it be better to apply battens onto the wall and plasterboard on top with insulation rolls in between?

Any suggestions are much appreciated.
 
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Insulated plasterboard is available everywhere. It makes your room a tad smaller but it will stop the heat escaping.
 
cannot clear cavities now as it would removing bricks which would be too messy.

Would I use a foil backed insulation board or non foil backed?
 
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Use insulated board - that's what it's for.
 
first check the the outside, and see why you have condensation, i.e bad pointing, or cracks etc. Then either baton and insulate, plasterboard and plaster, or use insulated plasterboard.
 
cannot clear cavities now as it would removing bricks which would be too messy.
its not that messy removing a brick every yard or so is easy if your walls are full of rubble they are going to get damp and cold wouldent you rather sort that out? its a much better option in my opinion
 
Thanks for the advise.


I am thinking about using the kingspan insulated plasterboards(as they more reasonably priced) along with dri wall adhesive and a few frame screws to make sure it doesnt fall off....is this ok to do?

Also would I require any other sort of plastic membrane in between the kingspan and wall or can it just go on the old plaster? and what would go in between any joins....some insulation or just tape?
 
Adhesive straight on to existing wall, butt the boards tight and tape the joints.
 
just curious....is it possible to use a number of frame screws on their own using no adhesive?
 
just curious....is it possible to use a number of frame screws on their own using no adhesive?

I don't think so. Adhesive gets the boards level, plumb etc and takes out inconsistencies in wall. Screwing straight onto wall could result in a warped surface.
 
Just had a look on the ofiical instructions for kingspan K17 and K18 and both mention that these insulated boards can be directly mechanically fixed on to masonry.

Doesnt mention what type of fixings to use.....does anyone know if a number of frame screws would be sufficient?
 
Just had a look on the ofiical instructions for kingspan K17 and K18 and both mention that these insulated boards can be directly mechanically fixed on to masonry.

Doesnt mention what type of fixings to use.....does anyone know if a number of frame screws would be sufficient?
grizzley you have been told the best method to use but you seem intent on direct fixing now if you want to try that, get a straight edge and spirit level and see how straight you wall is, it must be perfectly flat and level for you to get a good result any deviations will cause the board to break or warp here is the kingspan recomendations which ive copied and pasted for you "WHICH YOU MUST HAVE READ" Mechanical Fixing Directly to Masonry Substrates
This method is for application to fair finished brick, block and concrete cavity walls where Kingspan Kooltherm® K18 Insulated Wallboard is to be finished with gypsum plaster. The wall should be sound, dry and level (as surface irregularities may impede fixing of the board). now if your happy with that your wall meets the critiria then go ahead and fix it direct
 

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