Wall Repair, Options?

[SBW]

I need to replace four or five standard bricks in an interior cavity wall of a very dry room.

I will probably use a mortar of soft sand /cement mix 4:1.
I then need to cover this brick work with plaster.

Question 1: Is the 4:1 mix the best or should I use 5:1?

Question 2: How long must I let the brickwork dry out before I add the plaster?

Question 3: Once I have added the browning and as I intend to tile this wall do I really need to cover the browning with something like thistle finish or can I tile directly onto the browning?

Question 4: How long should I leave the plaster to dry before tiling? (Average thickness 1 inch, area approx 4 square feet)

Question 5: Would PVA be beneficial in any of the above stages?

Any relevant advice greatly appreciated
Thank you
Barry

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

1) sounds good enough
2) a couple of days should be enough, if drying condition are good.
3) you must apply a finish coat after your base coat, the base coat is not designed to carry tiles.
4) as long as possible, rule of thumb is 4 weeks
5) no, but you could dampen the walls down prior to base coating.

 

[SBW]

PrenticeBoyofDerry
Thank you for a specific and precise reply, it is most appreciated
Barry.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

PrenticeBoyofDerry
Thank you for a specific and precise reply, it is most appreciated
Barry.

No problems SWB thanks for the thanks it is most appreciated.
Good luck with your project, hope it is successfully and trouble free.

If you need any further advise along the way, I and others will be only too happy to help.

 

[NickB_99]

Question 3: Once I have added the browning and as I intend to tile this wall do I really need to cover the browning with something like thistle finish or can I tile directly onto the browning?

Can consider Render as an alternative also - may be useful if tiling.
What room is it, given you're talking of tiling? (kitchen, bathroom?)

 

[SBW]

Hi DIYnewbee99
Thanks for the reply and sorry for the late response (have just returned home).
The room in question is a toilet in which I have just fitted an extractor fan. I vaguely considered render but from previous posts I got the impression that it was more difficult to apply. As previously stated the area is only a few square feet and I have since added a couple of wooden screeds to help me obtain a level finish.
I have now removed the skirting board and as I now intend to tile down to the floor maybe I could fill in this gap with render, (I would be a little more confident with such a straight forward type of job) what do you or the other posters suggest? Your suggestions would be most welcome
Barry

 

[NickB_99]

The room in question is a toilet in which I have just fitted an extractor fan. I vaguely considered render but from previous posts I got the impression that it was more difficult to apply. As previously stated the area is only a few square feet and I have since added a couple of wooden screeds to help me obtain a level finish.
I have now removed the skirting board and as I now intend to tile down to the floor maybe I could fill in this gap with render, (I would be a little more confident with such a straight forward type of job) what do you or the other posters suggest? Your suggestions would be most welcome

I'd agree Render is more difficult to apply, but was thinking partly as you have the raw materials already from the brickwork repair.
Was just wondering if you were tiling in a bathroom (which you're not) so gypsum undercoat plaster should be fine.
Last observations - I think Browning is more difficult to source, from my trips to local DIY sheds, where Bonding and Hardwall are more plentiful. With proper prep, I'm sure you'll be fine with any of them as just a small area and you have your levels to work off.
And you use your finish plaster after the undercoat has set. Skimming same day is easier than waiting a day or so, where you can get caught out with too much suction.

Good luck. I'm sure you'll be very satisfied when the job's done, as you did it yourself.

 

[SBW]

Hi DIYnewbee99
Thanks for your email (food for thought) I can plan the next moves with a little more confidence.
Barry

 

[peaps]

Hi DIYnewbee99
Thanks for your email (food for thought) I can plan the next moves with a little more confidence.
Barry

You should keep away from gypsum base coats it areas that have a high moisture content, bathrooms, washrooms, kitchens and toilets etc.

Render is easy to apply. Just keep the area clean and wet down. Apply scratch coats to build up, then your float coat. If you are patching an area you can use the old wall to rulel off......

You need not apply a finish to render if you are to add tiles.

 

[SBW]

Thanks peaps,
Good logic.
Render it is!
Barry.