I've been fitting some backboxes. One of the chases was a bit average, with a chunk of brick too much being taken from one side. The left hand side is OK and the backbox can be screwed into place but on the right there is a fair bit of fresh air behind the box. What's the best way to rectify the situation? I was thinking about applying some mortar? I recall an old adage about it being easier to take material off than put it on...
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Fitting backbox to brick wall
- Thread starter ekmdgrf
- Start date
mortar is fine (OK) or you might use plaster if its some of that "one coat" which sets more like sand and cement than finishing plaster or you might use pink grip or similar
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I always liked bonding for this sort of thing
http://www.british-gypsum.com/produ..._undercoat_plasters/thistle_bonding_coat.aspx
http://www.british-gypsum.com/produ..._undercoat_plasters/thistle_bonding_coat.aspx
Mix bonding coat with 10% cement
Mix with water.
Now you've got to work fast as this mix will set solid in 15 minutes.
Or you can pay through the nose for fast setting mortar.
EDIT Extra tip
When forced to use mortar etc to fix a back box.
Mix up your muck and set the box in gobs of muck, where you want it, nice and level in the great big hole that you've made. Use bits of wood etc to chock it in place.
Wait at least a day until its set good and hard. Then get your drill out and fix the box to the filler/what's left of the wall with wall plugs and screws.
Mix with water.
Now you've got to work fast as this mix will set solid in 15 minutes.
Or you can pay through the nose for fast setting mortar.
EDIT Extra tip
When forced to use mortar etc to fix a back box.
Mix up your muck and set the box in gobs of muck, where you want it, nice and level in the great big hole that you've made. Use bits of wood etc to chock it in place.
Wait at least a day until its set good and hard. Then get your drill out and fix the box to the filler/what's left of the wall with wall plugs and screws.
I like sand and cement. Easy to mix and use and plenty of time to do it. You can poke it in round the top and sides unless the box is very tight. You need at least one screw to prevent the box shifting before the mortar has set. Spray the hole with water first to prevent it sucking the mortar dry (which will prevent it hardening properly)
Dry-wall adhesive for me!
Not only sets real hard, will also bond to back box and wall!
http://www.british-gypsum.com/produ...roc_accessories/gyproc_dri-wall_adhesive.aspx
Not only sets real hard, will also bond to back box and wall!
http://www.british-gypsum.com/produ...roc_accessories/gyproc_dri-wall_adhesive.aspx
slightly off-topic, I will confess that last time I mortared in a row of FCUs and a double socket, I made some kind of mistake with my level and got them on a slant. The faceplates are now upright, but shamefully crooked. The tiler came in before I had the chance to bash them out. Mortar gives a very secure fixing, but needs bashing to remove, once set. I had someone nagging me to finish...
"And create hell for the person who has to remove it at some point in the future!"
Sorry but I do not agree.
Whilst I will admit to using dry liner boxes on occasion (not the sturdiest of devices I`ll admit) I like to make the backbox part of the fabric of the wall so to speak.
nothing urks me more than folk who chase for a box with such a small clearance that the accessory can sit on top and hide the difference - ie the box is held firm only by the fixing screws and no plaster is added.
Even if I chain drill a hard wall and make the box such a "neat" fit I drill & plug it to the wall ensuring it is flush or a few milli below the finished surface then I cut a decent size wedge all around the box to ensure a good dollop of plaster all around the box to help make it all flush, smooth & firm on completion . The test being that even with removal of the wall screws the box would remain firm (I would never actually remove them though)
IMHO owt else is Ruf .
Others might well disagree
Sorry but I do not agree.
Whilst I will admit to using dry liner boxes on occasion (not the sturdiest of devices I`ll admit) I like to make the backbox part of the fabric of the wall so to speak.
nothing urks me more than folk who chase for a box with such a small clearance that the accessory can sit on top and hide the difference - ie the box is held firm only by the fixing screws and no plaster is added.
Even if I chain drill a hard wall and make the box such a "neat" fit I drill & plug it to the wall ensuring it is flush or a few milli below the finished surface then I cut a decent size wedge all around the box to ensure a good dollop of plaster all around the box to help make it all flush, smooth & firm on completion . The test being that even with removal of the wall screws the box would remain firm (I would never actually remove them though)
IMHO owt else is Ruf .
Others might well disagree
Dry wall adhesive for me too - quick to mix, cheap, and solid. Nice and thick too - no slumping.
Does it keep well?
Having infrequent need to solve such problems, I find myself using filler, as I'd never get through plaster or cement before it went off.
Having infrequent need to solve such problems, I find myself using filler, as I'd never get through plaster or cement before it went off.
If you keep it stored in a dry place will keep, for some time.
At least six months.
Well that's a suck it job.
May by there for some time!
Keeps well - I have half a bag in my shed at home that split the other day and made a right old mess, and that was from dot and dabbing my old garage a couple years back!
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