Old CCU to cooker switch & cable next to gas pipe

[SliStunions]

I have a 30+ year old discoloured surface mount cooker control unit. The 13A socket powers my all-gas cooker (clock & ignition), the high current side hasn’t been used for decades but I'm buying a dual fuel cooker (4.4kW) and want to change to a nice new cooker switch.
I have period tiles floor to 12” above worktop so I'd also like to run the cooker cable directly into the switch not via an outlet. Cable would go firstly sideways 8” behind the next unit then vertically 12” in conduit to the surface mounted box so neat, minimal risk of damage etc.

Changing CCU to switch sounds like-for-like and even in a kitchen I believe this is ok diy, no building control, thoughts please.

I’ve had the boards up to check the cable (well actually to add PIR cables) the 4mm T&E in good condition but it’s running in notched joists next to a 22mm gas pipe, no protection, yet! Any rules against gas, next to cables? Imagine nail into 30A circuit- lots of arcing & heat next to a gas pipe. Should I notch a fraction more and add steel conduit, I'm no where near 1/8 of the joist yet?

The 4mm terminates at a separate fuse mounted next to the main CU, no RCD’s anywhere, any simple & reliable options to improve safety?

Thanks in advance for any pointers..

 

[ericmark]

One is not required to upgrade only new stuff needs to be to new standards. So likely there is no law or rule to say you must alter what you have.

Cable is rated according to how installed there is no such thing as 32A cable. Where one runs into problems is where cavity wall insulation etc has been added as one normally considered 4mm to be 27A now although in the past it was used for 32A.

As to electric arc igniting gas it only needs a single small spark and one hopes there is no gas leaks so no chance of any spark setting it off. Distance really does not matter.

In the same way as you can drive an old 1920's car with no seat belts, and single brake lines, you can have an old house with no RCD fitted. However in both cases upgrading to a modern system does offer more safety and unlike the car you can't really drive your house electrics any slower because their old.

At some point you are going to want to do something which will force an upgrade it's just deciding when.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

IIRC there are gas regs that say things about minimum separation.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Gas installation pipes must be spaced at least 25mm from supply or distribution circuits. This distance will be increased for pipework over 35mm, it then it becomes 50mm.
This distance can be reduced if the pipework is electrically insulated
Requirement 528.3.4 touches on this, but it is a distance that is quoted in BS6891:2005+A2:2008 clause 8.16.2 (installation of low pressure gas pipework in domestic premises)

8.16.2 Separation of installation pipework from other services
Where installation pipes are not separated by electrical insulating material, they shall be spaced as follows:
a) at least 150 mm away from electricity meters and associated excess current controls, electrical
switches or sockets, distribution boards or consumer units;
b) at least 25 mm away from electricity supply and distribution cables.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Presumably "electricity supply and distribution cables" doesn't include bonding conductors.....

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Presumably "electricity supply and distribution cables" doesn't include bonding conductors.....

8.16.4 Main equipotential bonding
8.16.4.1 All domestic gas installations shall have main equipotential bonding of the gas installation
pipework conforming to BS 7671.

 

[SliStunions]

Thanks all.
I had the landing boards up and found the pile runs directly while the cable diverged to 4" into another run of notches by the next joist, so I'm fairly happy.
I've added Screwfix Protecta plates over each, took 2 per notch as I've wide joists.
I've replaced cooker/socket combo with cooker switch.

Now I have another point on my mind. The gas pipe is currently lead and looks in great condition but who ever fitted the cooker & boiler....hmm. The lead drops into the kitchen and becomes 15mm copper, another 8m long going round the walls with 7x R/A elbows. It feeds a 17.6kW Glow worm hide away and 60cm gas cooker (hob & oven & grill). This looks a little restrictive and sure enough the cooker hob flames drop when the boiler kicks in.


Got a qualified guy at work popping round to take a look...